Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Varex sounds perfect for you. Sound ON for fun and sound OFF for cops/missus. Have your pie and eat it too. Wish I got the varex.... awesome setup.

haha thats what my mrs says. I like it loud, tells the person next to me to watch out, lol. Just love the echoing noise in tunnels and the constant hum, e.t.c...
Ive got the varex. The note isnt as good as the others but at the touch of a button you hear nothing full on stealth mode. I love it..

ROFLMAO :stupid:

Absolutely love the Fujitsobo naming systems....

"Power Getter" to... get.... power

"Legalis" for being street legal

"Wagolis" for... wagons....

Their marketing manager needs to be promoted. Absolute gold.

If you're after off the shelf jap kits, I'd suggest a Fujitsubo Legalis Titanium. Nice exhaust note, not too loud/annoying.
did u end up getting 1??

im thinking hard about getting one...its tempting..

Of course matey :stupid:

I was a guinea pig of sorts... being I was the only one with a EPA lol.

Benno stuck with me and my many many failed EPA's, and a decent setup was reached that can be quiet when required for "legal" purposes, and near enough to legal on the street that most people shouldn't be hassled. Was a LOT of hair tearing involved... but worth it at the end of the day.

Thats coming from the 120dB exhaust i had before. I'm now the quietest car on SAU cruises, but I know ill flow 400rwkw :D

Ive got the varex. The note isnt as good as the others but at the touch of a button you hear nothing full on stealth mode. I love it..

Ye two issue with the Varex

1. The exhaust note is shit

2. Its still EPA defectable.

Its adjustable. Nothing controllable by the owner/operator is legal like that. What's to stop you driving off and flicking a button? Nothing... hence its illegal.

Any adjustable flange/plate in the exhaust is illegal.

Any plate must be FULLY welded in, and not spot welded - fully round edge.

Its adjustable. Nothing controllable by the owner/operator is legal like that. What's to stop you driving off and flicking a button? Nothing... hence its illegal.

Any adjustable flange/plate in the exhaust is illegal.

Any plate must be FULLY welded in, and not spot welded - fully round edge.

I really don't see any difference...

Your mega $ exhaust is 'near enough' to legal...near enough is not legal. So when it comes down to it, IF you get EPA'd, you have to modify it to pass. Now that may be a simple addition of an extra resonator etc, but it's still effort.

Now, your exhaust is quieter than most in its regular form, but so is a Varex when closed. So what's the difference? There isn't one. Both exhausts (a $400 muffler and your $1500-2k exhaust system) need to be modified to pass IF they are pulled up for testing.

If you have a Varex and drive around on the street with it closed for the most part, then chances are you won't get EPA'd, just as you'd not expect to with your system. But at the end of the day if you did get done, both require simple modification to pass, only one is a shit load cheaper.

So at the EPA station they would check for butterfly valves specifically?

If so, varex should make a full cat back with the RC butterfly valve somewhere much more upstream, so it's not detectable if you look at it from the back.

I really don't see any difference...

Your mega $ exhaust is 'near enough' to legal...near enough is not legal. So when it comes down to it, IF you get EPA'd, you have to modify it to pass. Now that may be a simple addition of an extra resonator etc, but it's still effort.

Now, your exhaust is quieter than most in its regular form, but so is a Varex when closed. So what's the difference? There isn't one. Both exhausts (a $400 muffler and your $1500-2k exhaust system) need to be modified to pass IF they are pulled up for testing.

If you have a Varex and drive around on the street with it closed for the most part, then chances are you won't get EPA'd, just as you'd not expect to with your system. But at the end of the day if you did get done, both require simple modification to pass, only one is a shit load cheaper.

Near enough is good enough when your chasing power, you'll never get a 650hp street car totally legal. There is always compromise.

I would imagine for a RB, i reckon probably the closest in Victoria to legal for my power range :stupid:

The Varex also has the control over bypass in the main exhaust, this is also going to cause as restriction even when open. Plus it they make the car sound shit in my opinion.

Once you drive around for a week with the Varex in "quiet" mode you'll soon be leaving it fully open once you see just how restricting and unresponsive the car becomes... its such a pig you wont want to drive the car its literally that bad. So in the end you'll get EPA'd anyhow.

So this then makes the Varex something of a mission to pass. It requires fitment of a totally new muffler.

I you do the ole 2.25" pea shooter that is then noted on the EPA sheet... where as im noted down as a 3.5" so im infront there as i cant be questioned if i get a on-road EPA station

I actually want to test mine without any changes

I suspect the 92dB tester has a poorly calibrated meter based on the fact it was 92dB and the next day it pulled 86dB @ the other place in exactly the same format... so i wouldnt be surprised if all along I was getting shafted by the fked tester/setup and then thinking my exhaust wasn't legal, when in actual fact it might well have been :D

Phatboy - the restrictor needs to be right at the end. Having it up the front doesn't make much difference.

We've tested a similar set up. Its all about the noise @ the outlet between the last muffler and the tip

I don't think you're any safer with a Varex as I wasn't pulled over, it was likely an off duty cop on his way home because if I had've been up it... I have no doubt in my mind i would have been pulled over. So that means I would have been reported on "cruise" which is WELL below the EPA requirements.

That's the law though, you can be reported on suspicion, not fact.

I know for a fact that cruising around my car is quieter than 90dB. Its not until it climbs above 4500rpm that it gets over... and if i was even @ 4500rpm in 3rd I'd be in licence loss zone.

So the EPA I received was largely bullshit as most of them are because if i was 4500rpm under load in 3rd, i would have had the red and blue in my rear vision mirror

Overall i still class my exhaust better than anything I've seen yet, and the Varex is a worse option - not a same level one.

i just had my test, it came in at 94db but i wasnt very happy with the way the test was carried out considering it was a busy road and on the other side of that road was a tyre shop making alot of noise, and i had to pay $38 for something that took this guy under 5 mins to do the whole test. he was a very rude guy.

i think its near impossible to have a fast car and have the sound under 90db with these engines, i think they test them up to high in the rev range, the amount of times im that high is very rare im usually in traffic and you can barely hear mine. i can come home at night and not wake up my mum which is saying something cause she is a light sleeper lol.

You can have a quick skyline under 90db, the exhaust Ash is talking about is a 3.5 inch which will output monster power which is amazing how quite they are, I have herd a few and I am considering getting one myself as a 3inch just won't do.

I had a Fujitsubo exhaust (two oval mufflers) on my manual stagea which had 265 rwkw and was as quiet as stock on part accel, sure it was a little restrictive but until I really opened it up you cound ont even hear it, my mechanic even thought it had stalled at the lights it is so quiet that he tried to turn it over again while it was still running!!

It didnt have that destinctive RB rumble but I loved how quiet yet how powerful the car was. I think it all depends on your ultimate goal, if you are happy with the 250ish rwkw then it is possible to have a very quiet and legal exhaust but if you are wanting huge power then you have to pay for it and go for a Racepace style exhaust.

How much are the full GTR Racepace exhausts roughly? or even a cat back?

LOL.....$10 buxs he gets an off the shelf one..then gets a defect then gets a muffler replacement (1 and a half inch outlet type so he can pass .

But seriously...a well built custom job is the way to go.

I have a large resinator...kakimoto...and a large custom side entry muffler(great for any gtr)..3 1/2 inch stainless and

am way under 88db...lol

The muffler was made to fit the entire available area....a bit of weight...but I have no head aches anymore.

Should post up a pic.....

LOL.....$10 buxs he gets an off the shelf one..then gets a defect then gets a muffler replacement (1 and a half inch outlet type so he can pass .

But seriously...a well built custom job is the way to go.

I have a large resinator...kakimoto...and a large custom side entry muffler(great for any gtr)..3 1/2 inch stainless and

am way under 88db...lol

The muffler was made to fit the entire available area....a bit of weight...but I have no head aches anymore.

Should post up a pic.....

:) pics please :(

Of course matey :)

I was a guinea pig of sorts... being I was the only one with a EPA lol.

Benno stuck with me and my many many failed EPA's, and a decent setup was reached that can be quiet when required for "legal" purposes, and near enough to legal on the street that most people shouldn't be hassled. Was a LOT of hair tearing involved... but worth it at the end of the day.

Thats coming from the 120dB exhaust i had before. I'm now the quietest car on SAU cruises, but I know ill flow 400rwkw :(

i know i will end up getting 1 from benno but probably towards the end of the year ... his so good at taking my money haha .. i need a damn good holiday where i can get mashed and pass out everyday on a beach somewhere so thats going to take priority now :(

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...