Jump to content
SAU Community

R34gtr Exaust

Mizzi

By Mizzi,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
Posted

The Varex sounds perfect for you. Sound ON for fun and sound OFF for cops/missus. Have your pie and eat it too. Wish I got the varex.... awesome setup.

haha thats what my mrs says. I like it loud, tells the person next to me to watch out, lol. Just love the echoing noise in tunnels and the constant hum, e.t.c...
Ive got the varex. The note isnt as good as the others but at the touch of a button you hear nothing full on stealth mode. I love it..
Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
Posted

ROFLMAO :stupid:

Absolutely love the Fujitsobo naming systems....

"Power Getter" to... get.... power

"Legalis" for being street legal

"Wagolis" for... wagons....

Their marketing manager needs to be promoted. Absolute gold.

If you're after off the shelf jap kits, I'd suggest a Fujitsubo Legalis Titanium. Nice exhaust note, not too loud/annoying.
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
did u end up getting 1??

im thinking hard about getting one...its tempting..

Of course matey :stupid:

I was a guinea pig of sorts... being I was the only one with a EPA lol.

Benno stuck with me and my many many failed EPA's, and a decent setup was reached that can be quiet when required for "legal" purposes, and near enough to legal on the street that most people shouldn't be hassled. Was a LOT of hair tearing involved... but worth it at the end of the day.

Thats coming from the 120dB exhaust i had before. I'm now the quietest car on SAU cruises, but I know ill flow 400rwkw :D

Ive got the varex. The note isnt as good as the others but at the touch of a button you hear nothing full on stealth mode. I love it..

Ye two issue with the Varex

1. The exhaust note is shit

2. Its still EPA defectable.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Its adjustable. Nothing controllable by the owner/operator is legal like that. What's to stop you driving off and flicking a button? Nothing... hence its illegal.

Any adjustable flange/plate in the exhaust is illegal.

Any plate must be FULLY welded in, and not spot welded - fully round edge.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
Its adjustable. Nothing controllable by the owner/operator is legal like that. What's to stop you driving off and flicking a button? Nothing... hence its illegal.

Any adjustable flange/plate in the exhaust is illegal.

Any plate must be FULLY welded in, and not spot welded - fully round edge.

I really don't see any difference...

Your mega $ exhaust is 'near enough' to legal...near enough is not legal. So when it comes down to it, IF you get EPA'd, you have to modify it to pass. Now that may be a simple addition of an extra resonator etc, but it's still effort.

Now, your exhaust is quieter than most in its regular form, but so is a Varex when closed. So what's the difference? There isn't one. Both exhausts (a $400 muffler and your $1500-2k exhaust system) need to be modified to pass IF they are pulled up for testing.

If you have a Varex and drive around on the street with it closed for the most part, then chances are you won't get EPA'd, just as you'd not expect to with your system. But at the end of the day if you did get done, both require simple modification to pass, only one is a shit load cheaper.

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
Posted

So at the EPA station they would check for butterfly valves specifically?

If so, varex should make a full cat back with the RC butterfly valve somewhere much more upstream, so it's not detectable if you look at it from the back.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I really don't see any difference...

Your mega $ exhaust is 'near enough' to legal...near enough is not legal. So when it comes down to it, IF you get EPA'd, you have to modify it to pass. Now that may be a simple addition of an extra resonator etc, but it's still effort.

Now, your exhaust is quieter than most in its regular form, but so is a Varex when closed. So what's the difference? There isn't one. Both exhausts (a $400 muffler and your $1500-2k exhaust system) need to be modified to pass IF they are pulled up for testing.

If you have a Varex and drive around on the street with it closed for the most part, then chances are you won't get EPA'd, just as you'd not expect to with your system. But at the end of the day if you did get done, both require simple modification to pass, only one is a shit load cheaper.

Near enough is good enough when your chasing power, you'll never get a 650hp street car totally legal. There is always compromise.

I would imagine for a RB, i reckon probably the closest in Victoria to legal for my power range :stupid:

The Varex also has the control over bypass in the main exhaust, this is also going to cause as restriction even when open. Plus it they make the car sound shit in my opinion.

Once you drive around for a week with the Varex in "quiet" mode you'll soon be leaving it fully open once you see just how restricting and unresponsive the car becomes... its such a pig you wont want to drive the car its literally that bad. So in the end you'll get EPA'd anyhow.

So this then makes the Varex something of a mission to pass. It requires fitment of a totally new muffler.

I you do the ole 2.25" pea shooter that is then noted on the EPA sheet... where as im noted down as a 3.5" so im infront there as i cant be questioned if i get a on-road EPA station

I actually want to test mine without any changes

I suspect the 92dB tester has a poorly calibrated meter based on the fact it was 92dB and the next day it pulled 86dB @ the other place in exactly the same format... so i wouldnt be surprised if all along I was getting shafted by the fked tester/setup and then thinking my exhaust wasn't legal, when in actual fact it might well have been :D

Phatboy - the restrictor needs to be right at the end. Having it up the front doesn't make much difference.

We've tested a similar set up. Its all about the noise @ the outlet between the last muffler and the tip

I don't think you're any safer with a Varex as I wasn't pulled over, it was likely an off duty cop on his way home because if I had've been up it... I have no doubt in my mind i would have been pulled over. So that means I would have been reported on "cruise" which is WELL below the EPA requirements.

That's the law though, you can be reported on suspicion, not fact.

I know for a fact that cruising around my car is quieter than 90dB. Its not until it climbs above 4500rpm that it gets over... and if i was even @ 4500rpm in 3rd I'd be in licence loss zone.

So the EPA I received was largely bullshit as most of them are because if i was 4500rpm under load in 3rd, i would have had the red and blue in my rear vision mirror

Overall i still class my exhaust better than anything I've seen yet, and the Varex is a worse option - not a same level one.

scotty014 Veteran

scotty014

Posted
Posted

i just had my test, it came in at 94db but i wasnt very happy with the way the test was carried out considering it was a busy road and on the other side of that road was a tyre shop making alot of noise, and i had to pay $38 for something that took this guy under 5 mins to do the whole test. he was a very rude guy.

i think its near impossible to have a fast car and have the sound under 90db with these engines, i think they test them up to high in the rev range, the amount of times im that high is very rare im usually in traffic and you can barely hear mine. i can come home at night and not wake up my mum which is saying something cause she is a light sleeper lol.

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
Posted

You can have a quick skyline under 90db, the exhaust Ash is talking about is a 3.5 inch which will output monster power which is amazing how quite they are, I have herd a few and I am considering getting one myself as a 3inch just won't do.

I had a Fujitsubo exhaust (two oval mufflers) on my manual stagea which had 265 rwkw and was as quiet as stock on part accel, sure it was a little restrictive but until I really opened it up you cound ont even hear it, my mechanic even thought it had stalled at the lights it is so quiet that he tried to turn it over again while it was still running!!

It didnt have that destinctive RB rumble but I loved how quiet yet how powerful the car was. I think it all depends on your ultimate goal, if you are happy with the 250ish rwkw then it is possible to have a very quiet and legal exhaust but if you are wanting huge power then you have to pay for it and go for a Racepace style exhaust.

How much are the full GTR Racepace exhausts roughly? or even a cat back?

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

LOL.....$10 buxs he gets an off the shelf one..then gets a defect then gets a muffler replacement (1 and a half inch outlet type so he can pass .

But seriously...a well built custom job is the way to go.

I have a large resinator...kakimoto...and a large custom side entry muffler(great for any gtr)..3 1/2 inch stainless and

am way under 88db...lol

The muffler was made to fit the entire available area....a bit of weight...but I have no head aches anymore.

Should post up a pic.....

Player_Hater Proficient

Player_Hater

Posted
Posted
LOL.....$10 buxs he gets an off the shelf one..then gets a defect then gets a muffler replacement (1 and a half inch outlet type so he can pass .

But seriously...a well built custom job is the way to go.

I have a large resinator...kakimoto...and a large custom side entry muffler(great for any gtr)..3 1/2 inch stainless and

am way under 88db...lol

The muffler was made to fit the entire available area....a bit of weight...but I have no head aches anymore.

Should post up a pic.....

:) pics please :(

Player_Hater Proficient

Player_Hater

Posted
Posted
Of course matey :)

I was a guinea pig of sorts... being I was the only one with a EPA lol.

Benno stuck with me and my many many failed EPA's, and a decent setup was reached that can be quiet when required for "legal" purposes, and near enough to legal on the street that most people shouldn't be hassled. Was a LOT of hair tearing involved... but worth it at the end of the day.

Thats coming from the 120dB exhaust i had before. I'm now the quietest car on SAU cruises, but I know ill flow 400rwkw :(

i know i will end up getting 1 from benno but probably towards the end of the year ... his so good at taking my money haha .. i need a damn good holiday where i can get mashed and pass out everyday on a beach somewhere so thats going to take priority now :(

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...