Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Can anyone tell me whats going on? I have just changed the motor in an R33 gtst which has khoni adjustables at the front, and the from suspension is extremely soft and bounces like a boat in waves as im driving along.

I did not touch the suspension at all, just a simple jack the car up, change the motor and put it back down?? wtf?

Any help would be greatly appreciated :blink:

sway bars still connected properly? dont think u need to take them off to change the engine, but it does go near to the sump so its possible. also did u have a strut brace on before? not usually a noticeable "handling" difference, mostly a mid-corner grip thing.

also was it a straight engine swap? u didnt put a heavier engine in did u?

sway bars still connected properly? dont think u need to take them off to change the engine, but it does go near to the sump so its possible. also did u have a strut brace on before? not usually a noticeable "handling" difference, mostly a mid-corner grip thing.

also was it a straight engine swap? u didnt put a heavier engine in did u?

Straight engine swap by replacing a S1 motor with a S2 motor.I dont recall at all undoing any sway bars. Was pretty much engine mounts, bellhousing bolts and the little things here and there and that was it.The shocks i think are khoni adjustables with a bolt at the top, and i think a something to adjust underneath.Its just like they are now ultra soft and i go over 1 bump and the front goes up and down constantly for about 10 seconds. Plus, it is bottoming out a lot more obviously due to the softness :(Can I simply adjust them at all? Is it the top bolt i adjust or underneath? (Sorry new to this)

Didnt drop the engine in to hard and bust the seals in the shocks did you?

Naa it all seemed smooth as! Dropped it in extremely carefully. But I suppose thats a possibility I may have done something.Another thing I forgot to mention is they are Coilover types i think. Ones with the adjuster at the bottom of the spring and the bolt at the top. Can it simply be a case of stiffening the spring? (Not that it explains what the go is though :P)

Straight engine swap by replacing a S1 motor with a S2 motor.I dont recall at all undoing any sway bars. Was pretty much engine mounts, bellhousing bolts and the little things here and there and that was it.The shocks i think are khoni adjustables with a bolt at the top, and i think a something to adjust underneath.Its just like they are now ultra soft and i go over 1 bump and the front goes up and down constantly for about 10 seconds. Plus, it is bottoming out a lot more obviously due to the softness :(Can I simply adjust them at all? Is it the top bolt i adjust or underneath? (Sorry new to this)

sounds like ur shocks are buggered for some reason, are they on full hard adjustment wise?

sounds like ur shocks are buggered for some reason, are they on full hard adjustment wise?

The bottom coil adjustment is about half/half, and the top bolt is just on the thread (ie the shaft of the shocks are just above the top of the bolt.

Would having the wheels in the air for an extended time do this? Because thats the only thing I can think of really.

i think you just answered your own question in that last sentence......

having the the wheels in the air for an extended period would put pressure on the shocks - weight of the wheels and brakes.

I know when I disconnect the shocks on the rear on my 1600, i can push down on the back and bounces a fair bit.

I would say shocks are stuffed!

Edited by petern

wheels in the air shouldnt bust ur shocks, as they are still in the static position, but will put a bit of pressure on the travel stops if it is infact the shocks which are suspending the wheel, often its the arms/rods or half shaft suspending the wheels up, and the shocks arent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...