Jump to content
SAU Community

Toyo Proxes 4 Vs Federal 595ss

mystery_kid
 Share

Recommended Posts

mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
Posted

first of all, are these 2 tyres in a similar price bracket? i'm guessing they are arong the same range

i have a price for the 595's, wondering what kind of cash you're up for for 17" 235/215 in the toyo's

so which one is the better performing tyre?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266293-toyo-proxes-4-vs-federal-595ss/
Share on other sites
IanB Veteran

IanB

Posted
Posted

I have been happy with the preformance of two sets of federal 595's in 245/45/17 however am now switching to Kuhmo ku36's as there is a negligible price difference between them. The kuhmos will not last anywhere near as long however, so if the car was a pure street car I think 595's are good for their price.

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have 225x17 on the front with Proxy 4's and 255 on the back with federal 595's. Hard to say how good they are as need the same tyre all round to give a good opinion. So I'll try anyway.

The Proxy's are very good over the Hankook K104's I had previously, in fact, there is no comparison. The Hankooks would understeer badly in the rain and dry unless really warmed up.

The 595's on the back are better than the Hankooks for grip in a straight line but MUCH better around corners. As an aside, have you priced the T1R Toyo's ? They are a very good tyre for the money. Though the 595's are the best for value.

Edited by skylinecouple
mystery_kid Mentor

mystery_kid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah thanks for the info guys, i ended up ringing bridgestone out of curiousity for some adrenalins, got them for $225 each on special

they are better than both of these tyres so i'll take the opportunity.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Rezz
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Rezz · Posted

      Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...