Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had a new brand spanker gearbox installed last week, a late model R33 Pull type, into my early R32 GTR.

Was apparently easy as pie to swap the new box from pull, back to push.

Also at the time had the following done:

1. check & reseal transfer case, and attessa actuator, new transfer fluid (Motul synth ATF)

2. rebuilt tailshaft, rebuilt centre bearing and new CV at the rear, rebalance

3. rebuilt driveshaft from transfer case to front diff (2 joints)

4. new diff oil (Motul Gear Competition 75W140)

5. Castrol Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox, as run-in for 500kms, then switching to Motul Gear 300 75W90

My question is this - when I first got the car, the rear diff would be clunky when you did low-speed high-lock driving - eg carparks.

I have not recently noticed this as much. Note that I have always had synth fluids in the gears and diffs and are changed regularly (less than 10,000kms).

Now that all the drivetrain is rebuilt or new, it seems to be clunky alot more. Is this a "good thing" in that it is all now tight? I'm guessing so.

The new box feels nice, but is still notchy. I guess that's what you get with an old agricultural box like these!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266456-new-gearbox-installed-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Just had a new brand spanker gearbox installed last week, a late model R33 Pull type, into my early R32 GTR.

Was apparently easy as pie to swap the new box from pull, back to push.

Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box?

The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting.

any help appreciated.

it may feel a lil bit notchy because ur clutch isnt adjusted properly i had the same thing with my gtst.... im unsure if gtr have adjustable pushrods from the clutch pedal but it may need just a lil extra travel added to the pedal cuz sumtimes u may be lazy and not push the pedal the whole way down.... just a suggestion see how it goes etc

Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box?

The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting.

any help appreciated.

IIRC the push or pull clutch is determined by the bellhousing, and you can swap bellhousings between gearboxes. Push is a backwards step and can be unreliable with a strong pressure plate spring - i think the pivot can break. You should be able to find this with searching, my memory is shot.

5. Castrol Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox, as run-in for 500kms, then switching to Motul Gear 300 75W90

<snip>

I have not recently noticed this as much. Note that I have always had synth fluids in the gears and diffs and are changed regularly (less than 10,000kms).

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff.....

You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff.....

You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

yep, you're probably right, Adam.

it's more just to make sure there is no machining swarf etc left in the new box

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...