Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everything is located in Southwest Sydney

Stock Body Parts R32 Gtr Bnr32

Drivers Side Guard Good condition, small wear on paint where side skirt was White in colour

$150

2 x Doors Complete White in colour, great condition no problems, with trims. No mirrors (separate)

$150 each

Gtr Bonnet, Perfect condition, no marks no dents, can supply Latch for gts-t conversion

$600

Gtr Grille, Perfect condition all clips supplied no problems paint great, White in colour

$200

4 x R32 Gtr Stock wheels + snow tyres Complete good condition (dont think there is any scrapes but will need to check) all caps with also.

$700

R32 dash vents passenger and middle perfect condition

$60 for both or $30 ea

R32 Gtr Boot, no wing holed filled and painted. perfect condition White colour

$300

R32 Mirrors Perfect Condition white in colour

50 each

Rear Bar for r32 gtr Few marks otherwise good condition

$100

Complete set of mats r32 gtr good condition.

$100

Complete floor carpet for r32 gtr Great condition no problems holes etc

$150

Performance parts / Aftermarket bits

Rb26 N1 Block+cradle, Machined for cp 86.5mm pistons Work done by Rhemac in Adelaide (this is a brand new block also)

$2400ono

Rb26 R33 Crank (larger pump drive) Checked by crank shaft rebuilders in Melbourne perfect condition

$700

Tomei Sump Baffle brand new opened box.

$250

Short Shifter for 32 gtr Unknown brand good condition with razo gearknob

$100

Suspension hks pillowball tops Bilstein shocks front and rear

$200

That will do for now, will post photos up soon.

Tomei Baffle sold and posted

Guard, Carpet, Mats, Passeneger vent sold and posted

Wheels on hold

Suspension still available, will post photos up tonite. Grille doors boot bonnet latch all still available

Everything is located in Southwest Sydney

Stock Body Parts R32 Gtr Bnr32

Drivers Side Guard Good condition, small wear on paint where side skirt was White in colour

$150

2 x Doors Complete White in colour, great condition no problems, with trims. No mirrors (separate)

$150 each

Gtr Bonnet, Perfect condition, no marks no dents, can supply Latch for gts-t conversion

$600

Gtr Grille, Perfect condition all clips supplied no problems paint great, White in colour

$200

4 x R32 Gtr Stock wheels + snow tyres Complete good condition (dont think there is any scrapes but will need to check) all caps with also.

$700

R32 dash vents passenger and middle perfect condition

$60 for both or $30 ea

R32 Gtr Boot, no wing holed filled and painted. perfect condition White colour

$300

R32 Mirrors Perfect Condition white in colour

50 each

Rear Bar for r32 gtr Few marks otherwise good condition

$100

Complete set of mats r32 gtr good condition.

$100

Complete floor carpet for r32 gtr Great condition no problems holes etc

$150

Performance parts / Aftermarket bits

Rb26 N1 Block+cradle, Machined for cp 86.5mm pistons Work done by Rhemac in Adelaide (this is a brand new block also)

$2400ono

Rb26 R33 Crank (larger pump drive) Checked by crank shaft rebuilders in Melbourne perfect condition

$700

Tomei Sump Baffle brand new opened box.

$250

Short Shifter for 32 gtr Unknown brand good condition with razo gearknob

$100

Suspension hks pillowball tops Bilstein shocks front and rear

$200

That will do for now, will post photos up soon.

Hi, Interested in the N1 block and GTR33 crank. PM me or call 0433559972 Alex

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...