Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Got a bit of a prob, rear passanger side bearing disintegrated, with it the seal, and apparently there's a spacer that goes b/w the bearing and the cover that holds the whole thing together

Can someone supply me with a diagram of how this thing is meant to be put together?

BTW, I'm in PNG, so going down to the wreckers is not an option

Cheers

KB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267443-need-88-skyline-diffbearing-diagram/
Share on other sites

In that case it's probably a local R31 with a live axle.

I guess the bearing your talking about is out on the end near the wheel eh!

If this is the case, the bearing you're talking about is just behind the axle mount flange. Correct?????

Cheers, D

And remember, it's a retainer, ie it retains the bearing on the shaft. More importantly, it retains the whole axle in the housing, preventing it (and your wheel) parting company with the car. Don't just bash the retainer on with a hammer. I'm inclined to think that if you need to ask questions on an internet forum, you probably should get someone more experienced to fit the bearings for you.

  • 2 weeks later...

yea if aus r31 will b bw78 diff. will need 2 drop ur centre out and press off the old bearing. then just go 2 a bearing joint and match it up (dunno what auto places u have there?). just normal taper roller/plain bearing or something (cnt remember) nothing special. press new 1 back on and this ring ur talkin about is ur shim, it sets the backlash between the pinion and crown gear. goes between the bearing and diff housing will def need it.

should b pretty straight forward taking it out when looking at it.

take wheels off, slide disks off (floating rear), undo 4 bolt axle flanges, pull axles out, undo diff plate, undo 4 bolts on the bearing cups. then diff centre should just fall out, might have 2 jimmy it out with large screw driver etc...

close-ish just dw about the mini spool part. more stuff on that site\/

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...ng_a_Mini_Spool

Edited by OUTATIME

We've got the bearing out, that's not a prob, but my mechanic recons there should have been a spacer holding the bearing in place. and we need the part numbers for the spacer/retainer and the seal

The old bearing was in bits and pieces when we took the cover and axel out...

N

:):D What is it about people posting tech how-to articles and them filling them with crappy mobile phone photos? Even the most basic phone takes half decent pics now, and digi cameras aren't that dear (my son's $70 job takes fantastic photos). Sorry for the rant but I take tech photos and write tech reports for a living and this kind of thing just sh!ts me no end.

Now that's out of my system, I have a Nissan Service Manual, and there are no pics in there showing the rear axle installation. It does, however mention the bearing retainer ring which goes on the inboard side of the bearing. Note this ring is never to be reused, and a new one will be supplied with the bearing kit. Your mechanic is correct - there should have been one. don't fret if you can't find it, as a new one will be supplied (as long as it's not floaring in your axle housing somewhere :banana: )

The photo below shows a Mazda RX2 setup, which uses the same concept as all live axle setups AFAIK. note that the locking collar has been welded to the axle in the photo - not what I'd call good practice, but it's how I got the car. Apparently it was a common fix for early Falcon (c1970's) when the rear axles used to pull out whilst driving.

post-266-1242276165_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...