Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Got a bit of a prob, rear passanger side bearing disintegrated, with it the seal, and apparently there's a spacer that goes b/w the bearing and the cover that holds the whole thing together

Can someone supply me with a diagram of how this thing is meant to be put together?

BTW, I'm in PNG, so going down to the wreckers is not an option

Cheers

KB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267443-need-88-skyline-diffbearing-diagram/
Share on other sites

In that case it's probably a local R31 with a live axle.

I guess the bearing your talking about is out on the end near the wheel eh!

If this is the case, the bearing you're talking about is just behind the axle mount flange. Correct?????

Cheers, D

And remember, it's a retainer, ie it retains the bearing on the shaft. More importantly, it retains the whole axle in the housing, preventing it (and your wheel) parting company with the car. Don't just bash the retainer on with a hammer. I'm inclined to think that if you need to ask questions on an internet forum, you probably should get someone more experienced to fit the bearings for you.

  • 2 weeks later...

yea if aus r31 will b bw78 diff. will need 2 drop ur centre out and press off the old bearing. then just go 2 a bearing joint and match it up (dunno what auto places u have there?). just normal taper roller/plain bearing or something (cnt remember) nothing special. press new 1 back on and this ring ur talkin about is ur shim, it sets the backlash between the pinion and crown gear. goes between the bearing and diff housing will def need it.

should b pretty straight forward taking it out when looking at it.

take wheels off, slide disks off (floating rear), undo 4 bolt axle flanges, pull axles out, undo diff plate, undo 4 bolts on the bearing cups. then diff centre should just fall out, might have 2 jimmy it out with large screw driver etc...

close-ish just dw about the mini spool part. more stuff on that site\/

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...ng_a_Mini_Spool

Edited by OUTATIME

We've got the bearing out, that's not a prob, but my mechanic recons there should have been a spacer holding the bearing in place. and we need the part numbers for the spacer/retainer and the seal

The old bearing was in bits and pieces when we took the cover and axel out...

N

:):D What is it about people posting tech how-to articles and them filling them with crappy mobile phone photos? Even the most basic phone takes half decent pics now, and digi cameras aren't that dear (my son's $70 job takes fantastic photos). Sorry for the rant but I take tech photos and write tech reports for a living and this kind of thing just sh!ts me no end.

Now that's out of my system, I have a Nissan Service Manual, and there are no pics in there showing the rear axle installation. It does, however mention the bearing retainer ring which goes on the inboard side of the bearing. Note this ring is never to be reused, and a new one will be supplied with the bearing kit. Your mechanic is correct - there should have been one. don't fret if you can't find it, as a new one will be supplied (as long as it's not floaring in your axle housing somewhere :banana: )

The photo below shows a Mazda RX2 setup, which uses the same concept as all live axle setups AFAIK. note that the locking collar has been welded to the axle in the photo - not what I'd call good practice, but it's how I got the car. Apparently it was a common fix for early Falcon (c1970's) when the rear axles used to pull out whilst driving.

post-266-1242276165_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My theory would revolve around the ~4000rpm point being peak torque territory on an RB, where you're supposed to be looking at max efficiency of the head, etc, and....just not having it because the skinny ports are doing something to f**k it up. I'll admit, it's a loose theory.
    • It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • -5’s did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 🤨🤪
    • Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...