Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas,

A simple question, yesterday I was cleaning out my ACC, and when I was putting it back on, I kept tightening the bolts it but it never seemed to end.

I could feel it was on tight, but as a kept screwing it didn't feel as though it was getting progressively harder to screw, but it was still fairly hard, do you get what I mean?

In any case, have I F$%ked something up?

Could there be a leak between the plennum and the ACC valve now that this has happened, and if so, how can I tell if there is a leak?

I am one paranoid mofo!!!! WOOWOWOWOWOOWOWOWO

Any help would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267760-how-tight-to-do-up-bolts/
Share on other sites

It states in the manuals the torque settings, for the AAC Valve it is 6.3 - 8.3Nm which is fairly tight, best thing is to get yourself a torque wrench so you can be sure its to manufacturing standards :O

mm, but I got a plazma man plennum, maybe because it's aluminium it's different feeling now?

mm, but I got a plazma man plennum, maybe because it's aluminium it's different feeling now?

you need to be careful screwing into aluminium, the chances of stripping the thread is increased, you dont want to do this!

yes it will feel different, more "spongy" if you like

personally i would do it up until you can see the aac valve pull all the way up onto the gasket then maybe another full turn or two, depending on thread pitch

plumbers tape is a thin white elastic tape also known as teflon tape. you just stretch it over the bolt that u tightening and then screw it back in. most times, a couple of times round is heaps.

can buy it from bunnings, super cheap and even auto bahn.

Edited by cheez
you need to be careful screwing into aluminium, the chances of stripping the thread is increased, you dont want to do this!

yes it will feel different, more "spongy" if you like

personally i would do it up until you can see the aac valve pull all the way up onto the gasket then maybe another full turn or two, depending on thread pitch

ahhhh shit, I turned it like 5 turns after it hit the gasket........

Does this mean it's gonna leak now?

ahhhh shit, I turned it like 5 turns after it hit the gasket........

Does this mean it's gonna leak now?

if its still tight...possibly not, but always check the pitch on the bolt first, say the pitch is 1.25mm, (assuming im correct) one complete revolution equals a movement of 1.25mm, so 5 turns would work out to be 6.25mm of movement!

Edited by Zurlox
if its still tight...possibly not, but always check the pitch on the bolt first, say the pitch is 1.25mm, (assuming im correct) one complete revolution equals a movement of 1.25mm, so 5 turns would work out to be 6.25mm of movement!

Ahhh bugga, not to worry......

How will I know if it's leaking pressure?

You will probly hear it hissing...

Why dont you wind the bolt out and put a new one in?

You could have also stretched the thread, and when they stretch too fat they go bang, and you have half the bolt in your hand :O

have u go the correct bolt in there?

a 5mm will turn forever in a 6mm hole

Yeah it's definately the right one, it just feels different mounting it to the alloy plennum.

As that other fella said, feels spongy instead of getting progressively tighter.... I think it should hold up. I'll test it tonight see if I get any boost dropping off.....

zurlox, 6.3 - 8.3nm isnt tight at all... probably only a little bit tighter than u can do with a screw driver.

if its turned more than twice in aluminium then its nearly deffinatly stripped the thread.

should spray water around it when its running and see if it leaks. if its turbo then the boost could force it open then there will be a leak

i think best bet would b to find sum1 with a thread tapping set and re tap it and fit a new bolt..... but if the threads totally gone then u might have to get it inlarged to the next size up as there will be nothing to tap.

or mayb get a helicoil put in????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...