Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This The Knob To Adjust Damping Rate On Tein Ss Coilovers? (pic)

dnbosiris
 Share

Recommended Posts

dnbosiris Enthusiast

dnbosiris

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nah it was piece of piss! the back seat just lifted out.

didn't realise it was such an easy task to adjust damper, i thought i'd be more work. made my rears softer and the ride is much nicer.

:cool:

axe s Experienced

axe s

Posted
Posted

in mine on the drivers side there's a bracket thats in the way and i have to squeeze my hand in there to turn it...

yeah it's pretty good being able to change the feel of the car in 10 min's...

JCaSs1001 Contributor

JCaSs1001

Posted
Posted

ne 1 know if this is the same for HKS shocks??? i have no idea how they are set atm and wanna make sure there even. so is it just a matter of clockwise untill it stops??? and then back how ever many clicks i want????

  • 2 months later...
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's pretty simple guys, don't have to jack up the car or anything. Just pop your bonnet and turn the knobs by hand, counter clockwise for soft, clockwise for hard. You will need to take out the rear seat for access to the rears, as they sit under the parcel shelf. My Jap-spec SS actually have 24 positions so the 16 position rule didn't really help me...I just turned the knob softly until I got to the end of its travel, then turned it a single click in the other direction to make sure it was sitting in a proper click (hard to explain, but the end of the knob's travel is actually half a clicl so I didn't want to leave it on this...you'll see what I mean if you do it my way).

P.S. all coilovers have their own way of adjusting damper, but it is typically done via a knob on top of the strut. Koni's and Teins use clockwise / counter clockwise setups, as do many other brands. In contrast, my GAB coilovers used a 4 position knob that didn't matter how many times you turned it, all that mattered was which colour the arrow was pointing to...whilst the rears had knobs at the bottom of the struts with numbers on them for level of firmness, saving you from having to pull out the rear seat for access to a knob on top of the strut.

Edited by Birds

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • DannyDee2
      First time owner v35

      By DannyDee2 · Posted

      Welcome mate!
    • DannyDee2
      Trans oil cooler off a Stagea

      By DannyDee2 · Posted

      I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...