Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you like bronze (i think they'll look better than white on your colour + its way easier to maintain, e.g. you cant tell if its dirty unless you're really close), Andrew Sullivan from Kudos Motorsports is selling his with tyres for around 4.6k, 19" x 10.5" +22, tyres are 265/40/19 i think. I've seen them in real life and they're immaculate. Massive dish. But being 19 means the tyres would be more exp and 4.6k is way out of my budget back that.

Nice limited editions guys - an N1 and LM! :)

Here is a picture of blue R34 GT-R with white LMGT4s - I think the colour combo works pretty well (although it is Bayside of course, slightly different to the LM Blue)

DSC_0082.jpg

I'm pretty sure that with the CE28N, LMGT4, TE37 or RE30, all should clear the big calipers of the GTR when ordered in the larger wheel widths. However a few of even these types are made in different 'rim depths' or 'disk types' (completely independent of the offset figure), so don't hesitate to find out as much as you absolutely can before ordering. The person who imported some Volk GTCs for me ordered the wrong bloody disk type and they didn't clear my calipers. They were 18" x 10" +12. Those measurements should have been fine if it weren't for the wrong disk type. They took three months to manufacture and ship out to me; you can imagine how livid I was when I found out they didn't fit.

See if you can find a set that you can try on your car before you lay down your hard earned.

In any case I think any of the Volks I mentioned would look fantastic on your car, personally my pref. would be white or silver on your blue 33, as opposed to gold, bronze or black. Good luck :)

Matt

Do you know if the 18x10.5's in +22 offset need any mods to fit on an R33 GTR?

TE37 18x10.5 +15 sit flush with the guards (slightly rolled) on my R33 GTR. I'd take a pic but the cars still at XCM..

Cheers

Johno

Get the matt silver/titanium colour if they exist. Its hard work to clean the rims (thats why I got the fat 5 spoke LMGT) of CE28N etc if you know what I mean which I why I would recommend bronze. The previous Work CR Kai I've got are in bronze and you cant tell if they're dirty at all... but the LMGT4, I've got to clean them every 1 or 2wks to make them look good

Like what God_speed said, the disc type will affect the brake clearance as well and not just the offset/width (I like to think of disc type as the rim's design). Whatever colour or model you're getting, just make sure you go to the Ray's website and get the size off there. You'll never go wrong that way.

God_Speed: Thats a very painful experience and I hope you've managed to sell them. Very nice rim though.

J'z-R33: Why do you have to roll your guards? I presume you have the car lowered? I'm running 18"x9.5" +12 and 285/30/18 tyres (the tyres came with the rims) and I have no guard problems. But having said that, the car is stock as hell and it looks a lil like a 4WD from the back with those tyres and unlowered suspension. =x

Cheers

Appreciate your suggestions guys, all good stuff. :)

My LM has been lowered since the above pic, not sure how much lower than standard it is, but it seems to be enough to lose the 4wd look.

The Fujitsubo exhaust hangs pretty low in one spot, so the car was lowered just enough to keep the bare minimum (100mm) clearance underneath. I don't like being defected. :)

After a bit of research it seemed that there would be no problem fitting 18x9.5 with +12 offset, so that's why I was going with that size.

Well if your car has been lowered then it'll be a total different story. You might have to roll the guards to fit the tyres and in this case, its not the brake clearance issue but rubbing of guard. And as J'Z-R33 said, he needs to roll his guard slightly to make it flush and thats with +15 on a 10.5".

Best is to get your current rims/tyre size and go to 1 of those offset calculator (do a search on the forum) and double confirm.

J'Z-R33: Do you have much problem going over humps at all? or have you changed the suspension as well to accommodate?

Edited by Brandon

The car had the guards rolled when I bought it. However it lined up perfectly with the TE37's. I havent driven the car since Christmas or on the TE37s for that matter so I cant comment on scrubbing just yet. Suspension has been done/is in progress, just gotta sort out some roll centre adjusters and get the driveline back in lol.

Yeah thanks mate I finally sold them after more than 6 months on the market (partly due to current economy but mainly because hardly any cars would accomodate them)

FWIW, my RE30s are 18"x9.5" +15, the car has been lowered about 1" and JD - I also have a Fujitsubo exhaust (Legalis R I believe)... it is a fantastic free-flowing design with minimal bend, but then yeah the price you pay is that the fatness of the pipe and the shallow bend mean that if you go over bumps too quickly the exhaust will hit.

Definitely no probs with scrubbing with 265/40 ZR18 Potenzas either on lock stops or over bumps.

There are some good threads in the Suspension Mods section on how far you could go on your BCNR33 - Of course after buying my GTCs I did a lot of research I should have done beforehand and it seems as though 18"x10.5" +12 to +15 is about the limit without some serious camber and fender modification

Yeah thanks mate I finally sold them after more than 6 months on the market (partly due to current economy but mainly because hardly any cars would accomodate them)

FWIW, my RE30s are 18"x9.5" +15, the car has been lowered about 1" and JD - I also have a Fujitsubo exhaust (Legalis R I believe)... it is a fantastic free-flowing design with minimal bend, but then yeah the price you pay is that the fatness of the pipe and the shallow bend mean that if you go over bumps too quickly the exhaust will hit.

Definitely no probs with scrubbing with 265/40 ZR18 Potenzas either on lock stops or over bumps.

There are some good threads in the Suspension Mods section on how far you could go on your BCNR33 - Of course after buying my GTCs I did a lot of research I should have done beforehand and it seems as though 18"x10.5" +12 to +15 is about the limit without some serious camber and fender modification

Good on ya! I was thinking of lowering 1" as well but everyone told me there not much point in getting coilover since I dont drive it hard. Since the GTR already come with coilover (non-adjustable), I could just change the spring and thats all I need. But the 285 tyres might have problem with scrubbing? I'm still learning this wheel thing and theres so much to learn... Current I have have any problem over any hump at all except those really steep ones which can also be cleared by driving slowly.

Just for comparison sake, my GTR is 365mm from centre of wheel to bottom of wheel arch at the front, and 355mm at the back.

There is plenty of adjustment left on the coilovers, but any lower and my exhaust will probably be scraping on bumps, where at the moment it doesn't.

I got lucky with the suspension set up - my suspension guy had a brand new set of Eibach springs and Bilstein adjustable coilovers sitting on the shelf that someone had ordered and never picked up, so I got them pretty cheap.

We did front and rear tie rods, adjustable camber and castor bushes while we were at it, and I just put on a pair of Whiteline blade adjustable sway bars.

It handles pretty well now.

Just for comparison sake, my GTR is 365mm from centre of wheel to bottom of wheel arch at the front, and 355mm at the back.

There is plenty of adjustment left on the coilovers, but any lower and my exhaust will probably be scraping on bumps, where at the moment it doesn't.

I got lucky with the suspension set up - my suspension guy had a brand new set of Eibach springs and Bilstein adjustable coilovers sitting on the shelf that someone had ordered and never picked up, so I got them pretty cheap.

We did front and rear tie rods, adjustable camber and castor bushes while we were at it, and I just put on a pair of Whiteline blade adjustable sway bars.

It handles pretty well now.

The R33 GTR handles awesome right out of the box! :P

JD your setup sounds pretty amazing, I'd like to see how a BCNR33 handles with all that kit on it.

I have only modified my suspension by fitting TEIN HR coilovers in place of the (non-Vspec) coilovers and the 1" drop. The springs/dampers are Jap spec I believe and bloody hard. It has got to the point now after about 3 yrs where I am driving the car less and less because the roads around my area have too many expansion joints and potholes and are just plain crap, so I've got some TEIN Super Streets on order which are adjustable for damping and also are re-valved for Aus conditions.

Brandon I think that while you can now get R33 GTRs cheap, it doesn't mean you should compromise on suspension, after all these cars are all about handling and if you buy some sh*t cheap-arse suspension then it will ruin the handling of the car and just the driving experience in general. No need to shell out $10K or something like that but it is worth the time doing your research and looking at others' experiences here at SAU, etc, and then buying something quality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...