Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nissan Skyline R33 Series 2, Melbourne

Handling/Performance

TIEN superstreet coilovers (less than 2000k’s)

Whiteline front and rear sway bars

Front Strut brace (off a Stagea)

TOMEI short shifter

HYBRID Front mount

Custom Turbo-back exhaust

Hi flow Cat

Twin 4” muffler

HKS EVC (electronic dual stage boost controller)

RDA slotted Front rotors

Ferodo DS2500 pads all round

Apexi Power FC w/ HC

Exterior

Full respray in Cubanite silver (Mercedes Champaign)

Custom evo vent moulded into bonnet (actually serves a prupose, cold air straight to the pod)

Pod is contained in an aluminium box

Full explosive body kit

Nismo clear side indicators

20” Pegasus rims with Nankang tyres

Interior

GTR front seats

Seats and parcel shelf re-trimmed in black

Custom Dash surround (black with gold pearl)

Blitz boost gauge

HKS turbo timer

Sound

Alpine head unit (one of the new ones)

Focal Splits at the front

JL audio 4channel running speakers

2 x 12” Kicker comp subs

Kicker mono-block running the subs

Made 199.5rwkw with the Power FC at RE customs Dyno

All tuning done at RE Customs

Serviced every 5000kms or less with Motul Turbolite

$19 500 NEGOTIABLE

Price is negotiable, can also remove a few things such as computer, system or rims.

Owned this car since 2003. First owner in Australia, imported myself.

Bought it stock standard and have built it up over the past 5+ years

Reason for sale: I never thought I'd sell this, but it's just time to move onto something else

Contact:

PM or sms: 0433 117 369

pics coming in a few minutes...

Edited by LiQuid IcE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268524-for-sale-gold-r33-s2-1997/
Share on other sites

Dyam... That truly has to be one of the finest 33's I've seen in awhile.

Thing has got sex appeal HARDDD!

I think this is one of the few R33's going around Melb that actually stands out form the crowed without looking too "riced" up.

Good luck with the sale man. :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...