Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The answer is, yes AND no.

I saw a genuine disintegrated rear CF diffuser off a 2002 V Spec II N1 (yes that's right, a real N1) and guess what, it's made out of a thick layer of dry carbon fibre on the outside, and some tye of alloy in the centre. Im guessing it's probably aluminium anyway as the diffuser is quite light.

So there you go. I thought they were supposed to be 100% dry carbon fibre but the fact is, they're not.

I will take a pic next time i see that car.

I have mine off my car and it looks like dry carbon all the way through, nothing shiny or looks like metal.

are the n1's different maybe? it weighs about 4-5kg, what bout the n1

I honestly doubt they would make 2 differnt types of diffusers for our cars, Especially the fact this was an N1 car. If they did make 2 types, I would have thought they would put a 100% cf one on an N1.

And also, how would you know yours is 100% cf when you cant see right through it?

I honestly doubt they would make 2 differnt types of diffusers for our cars, Especially the fact this was an N1 car. If they did make 2 types, I would have thought they would put a 100% cf one on an N1.

And also, how would you know yours is 100% cf when you cant see right through it?

umm there are some holes drilled in the diffuser, ill get some pics asap.

looked inside and it looks uniform in structure all the way through

I thought I told you to stay out of my garage, Eugene!!

It sounds fairly unusual to have a layer of metal in-between, mainly because it would be so hard to bond it. Maybe it's some kind of bonding agent that's a similar colour??

I went and checked mine and it's definitely all CF, but I'm pretty sure mine's a Nismo one.

Edited by Iron Chef
You may want to avoid showing the rest of the car, though :P If it's the one I'm thinking of...

I cant show the car as it's not for me to display, so I will respect the owner for it. Car is for sale though but it's most likely that it's sold already.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...