Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
they don't sell C's shifters for R34 GTR anymore because they are discontinued.. If nengun had them I would have bought one

Hey Mate,

I recently went on a mission to track one of these puppies down! Most of the time was confirming that the C's shifter was a genuine product and suited towards the 6 speed gearbox with the reverse trigger integrated into the shifter. 4 hours later I have now secured one - well, awaiting for package to arrive from the US! :)

post-60953-1263777465_thumb.jpg

The good news is, I found two avenues who claim to have stock! The first of which, I just purchased from after clarification from pictures enclosed (image is of the unit pulled out of the C's box - 3 bolts/washers also included) The second source who has stock, is sending me pictures today to clarify his unit is also for the R34GTR. I suspect it is considering it was the same part code from the unit I ordered but he said he actually has two different types - so best to clarify naturally.

Once I receive the return pictures I'll let ya know if your in luck. :)

Ben

Awesome! Thanks mate, appreciate the reply.

:)

Hey Mate,

I recently went on a mission to track one of these puppies down! Most of the time was confirming that the C's shifter was a genuine product and suited towards the 6 speed gearbox with the reverse trigger integrated into the shifter. 4 hours later I have now secured one - well, awaiting for package to arrive from the US! :)

post-60953-1263777465_thumb.jpg

The good news is, I found two avenues who claim to have stock! The first of which, I just purchased from after clarification from pictures enclosed (image is of the unit pulled out of the C's box - 3 bolts/washers also included) The second source who has stock, is sending me pictures today to clarify his unit is also for the R34GTR. I suspect it is considering it was the same part code from the unit I ordered but he said he actually has two different types - so best to clarify naturally.

Once I receive the return pictures I'll let ya know if your in luck. :)

Ben

i've also been searching one for myself manage to find it at below site:

http://www.powerhouseracing.com/merchant/nissanr34.shtml

type in BNR34 in the search function. from picture it looks correct. i've just sent them a email to confirm that it's for a R34 GTR (6speed manual with pull up reverse).

will advise of reply when received.

Powerhouse racing (Joe was his name) was the contact I was emailing as my second option; so your on the right path!

He has however emailed me TODAY (after waiting several) advising the last kit has just sold!!!!!! So I'm hoping this was sold to one of you guys; thankfully I didnt wait until he bloody responded otherwise I would have missed out.

That's why I didnt advise at first until I got confirmation that it WAS for the BNR34 but it appears there are a number of ppl tracking these down as they are now becoming rare and are obviously a discontinued product line.

Seek and you shall find as they say......I'm sure there will be others! The surplus of stock I found was in the US; I suspect there will be other traders who have stock or perhaps even check a US based GTR forum in the used parts section if there is sucha thing.

I used the following extensions to search + more:

*Comrade C's short shift kit

*C's Short Shifter kit for R34 Skyline 1314 NL SKYLINE <-- this is the exact coding I purchased from - I bought my kit from a US based EBAY performance shop.

*I originally found powerhouse racing through the GTROC UK forum also.

Dedicate some time to google m8, I'm sure you'll come across one if you commit the time to it!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
damn.... missed out. some prick probably read this thread and bought it! :laugh:

Hi there, so did you buy from powerhouseRacing.com ?

Some help please, I'm looking for my R34 GT-T

Thanks for reading:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...