Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have been speaking to a local manufacturer about swapping the stock bad boy spoiler for a more subtle looking bootlip style (like the r33 one from JMS but without the need for the boot extensions on the side :confused: )

THe R34 spoiler leaves 3 holes each sied in the boot so the solution seesm to be in a H pattern spoiler with a small extension that "flows" from the spoileredge to conceal the holes. This is preferable to bogging and respraying as you can replace it when you sell if you want. The spoiler would be held on by dble sided tape across the rear, and bolts through the original boot opening.

To preanswer your questions;

1. There are no pictures yet cos it aint been built but the look will be tough but subtle.

2. Pricing will depend on qty but an indication was $600 - 750 designed and painted for Sydney people with extra for couriers etc to other destinations (we can find that out if it goes ahead but Im not wasting time now on that detail).

3. Time frame would be months to get a few designs, then a few built so its not something to whack on this weekend.

If you are interested please post back

regards

Tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27030-interest-in-r34-bootlip-spoiler/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...