Jump to content
SAU Community

Nsw- R31 Series 3 Ti

anderman
 Share

Recommended Posts

anderman Apprentice

anderman

Posted
Posted (edited)

Make/Model: Nissan skyline R31 S3 Maroon TI, 1989

Year: 1989

Kilometers: 260,000

Transmission type: Auto

Engine: RB30

Colour: Maroon

Modifications: none

Roadworthy Certificate: N/A

Registered: N/A

Accident History: None that i know of

Asking Price: Offers

Location: Jesmond Newcastle NSW

Contact Details:

Other Comments: I bought this car a few months ago in the hope of restoring it, but have ran out of cash so I'm selling it. Could be great for restoration, even just get the rear wheel bearing fixed, give the engine a service and re rego it. Or strip it down and sell parts individually which you would make a profit from, I just dont have the time.

I bought the car from a man who had origionally planned to turn it into a hillclimbing or rally car I cant quite remember. But he told me he bought it of an old guy who looked after it fairly well.

But it sat around from about december last year until about now so it needs a good service etc.

The cars registration ran out at the end of last year.

The clear is coming off the paint in a few places and is a bit warn.

Only spot of rust that i have been able to find is in the Front right quarter panel where the bottom has rusted out. but thats easily fixed with a new quarter panel, there is no structural rust that i know of.

The engine is a bit rough but im sure it just needs a bit of a tune and TLC to get it running smooth.

The diff doesn't wine much if at all but I cant guarantee I have only driven the car briefly.

Auto Gearbox changes gears well and no slipping or any other problems that I found.

pretty much dentless car. one or two minor dents and that is all.

Electric windows work, the back ones are a little stiff from lack of use but a little bit of a clean should fix that

Interior is really good. No rips or broken parts and only minor bits of fading on the rear headrests.

I think it needs a new rear wheel bearing as im pretty sure its seized or something. The car drives but makes a funny squeak from the Left hand side rear and locks if the cars been sitting to long. I'm not entirly sure what it is but Im fairly sure its nothing to major.. It could even be the handbrake locking.

Has all standard stuff inc TI wheels.. (missing 2 caps)

And Electric windows, cruse control, trip computer etc.

Tires are roadworthy i think with a decent amount of tread.

IMG_6529.jpg

IMG_6530.jpg

IMG_6531.jpg

IMG_6532.jpg

IMG_6534.jpg

IMG_6535.jpg

IMG_6536.jpg

IMG_6536.jpg

IMG_6538.jpg

IMG_6539.jpg

IMG_6540.jpg

IMG_6541.jpg

IMG_6542.jpg

IMG_6543.jpg

Edited by anderman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270479-nsw-r31-series-3-ti/
Share on other sites
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...