Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

going to get my alarm installed soon but the shop told me i need to get another part for the door to autolock when i engage the alarm (door actuator ??)

My car doesn't have an alarm atm (opened with the key). When i lock the door from the driver side, it locks the passenger side aswell..

When i bought my car the guy said it has 'central locking' so do i need this part or are they playing tricks on me? :huh:

Edited by shaun123
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270652-alarm-install-question/
Share on other sites

Try locking/unlocking from the passengers door. If it doesnt lock/unlock the drivers door then you will need an actuator for it

Try retrofitting a secondhand passenger door actuator to the drivers side or get a DSE kit

Maybe.. Sit in the car and lock/unlock both doors from the lock button on each door. If the opposite side locks/unlocks, then you don't need any. If the passenger side works when you operate the driver side then you can use one actuator in the drivers door. When it opens/closes it will cause the passenger side to unlock/lock.

Actuators are (or should be) fairly cheap. I would just let the installer use two if they really want to.

A little confusing, but you will understand if you just try it.

hey guys, thanks for the replies. turned out i did need a door actuator .. had a spare one lying around in the garage so i didn't have to fork out $$ for it :sick:

got a mongoose m80g installed i was wondering if this is meant to happen:

If the system is disarmed and if no doors are opened, the alarm re-arms but the doors arent re-locked?? can i turn it on so the doors are locked? my installer said something about my inside light coming on so it wont auto relock itself?

also noticed the range on the remotes is pretty small... (haven't tried direct line of sight) but with my old cars alarm (crappy one) i used to be able to arm it from within my house/room.. now i cant with this mongoose one which is a shame because i thought this was a top of the range alarm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...