Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Ride Height And Other Q's

predator
 Share

Recommended Posts

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Just starting on the long path of modifying my R32 GTR to improve the handling..

At the moment, have measured the wheel to guard and I seem to have 335mm on the front, and 345mm on the rear.. From reading of previous threads it appears as if 345mm is fairly recommended for the rear, but my front is probably too low. I know SK used to recommend around 355mm at the front, but that seems a little high front/rear to me? I used to run 350mm front and rear on my gts-t and that was a very nice I found, but realise the GTR weighs a fair bit more on the front end.

My main complaint at the moment is that it is a little bouncy.. not completely stuffed bouncy (AFIAK), but seems the fronts especially seem a little soft. I'm pretty used to harsh spring rates which I didn't mind actually on the street. Suspension are TEIN, although pretty old.. has height adjust but doesn't seem to have any damper adjust - anybody know what model these may be? Stickers are worn off.

When I jack the car up, from the photo below, you can see the spring is non-captive by about 5mm. I am thinking that because the fronts have possibly been lowered excessively, this is not compressing the springs to their optimal rate, hence giving the floaty sensation through the front? The springs are fairly captive on the ground, but I've never had springs non-captive like that when jacked up, so I'm thinking may be time to get the old c-spanners out.

Any recommendations would be great.

post-1332-1242807174_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270929-gtr-ride-height-and-other-qs/
Share on other sites
Waza_GTR Explorer

Waza_GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just starting on the long path of modifying my R32 GTR to improve the handling..

At the moment, have measured the wheel to guard and I seem to have 335mm on the front, and 345mm on the rear.. From reading of previous threads it appears as if 345mm is fairly recommended for the rear, but my front is probably too low. I know SK used to recommend around 355mm at the front, but that seems a little high front/rear to me? I used to run 350mm front and rear on my gts-t and that was a very nice I found, but realise the GTR weighs a fair bit more on the front end.

My main complaint at the moment is that it is a little bouncy.. not completely stuffed bouncy (AFIAK), but seems the fronts especially seem a little soft. I'm pretty used to harsh spring rates which I didn't mind actually on the street. Suspension are TEIN, although pretty old.. has height adjust but doesn't seem to have any damper adjust - anybody know what model these may be? Stickers are worn off.

When I jack the car up, from the photo below, you can see the spring is non-captive by about 5mm. I am thinking that because the fronts have possibly been lowered excessively, this is not compressing the springs to their optimal rate, hence giving the floaty sensation through the front? The springs are fairly captive on the ground, but I've never had springs non-captive like that when jacked up, so I'm thinking may be time to get the old c-spanners out.

Any recommendations would be great.

Rear is OK go to 355 on the front

Edited by Waza_GTR
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

I had 335fr 345rr and moved to 355fr 345rr - i like it a LOT better. Only got a few laps in at Wakefield before the rear turbo let go, but i'm sure it will be significantly faster. When i asked about height the gurus said make sure you have 10mm higher at the front (most important) and then that 355 front was optimal.

I also got my car corner weighted (and aligned of course). I figure do it once do it properly, but if your current suspension is not up to standard it might be worth getting that sorted before the corner weighting.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, will try 355 front and see how it feels. If i still don't think its much chop, will start considering shock/spring changes.

Ronin: haha.. you see I got abducted by these aliens from the planet "work", they subjected me to strange and evil things for many months :P but I am back now.. Was even considering not owning a skyline at all, but thankfully I came to my senses :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...