Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at buying either a garrett Gt3071R IW or a GT3076R .82 IW with the genuine garrett rear housing (not the factory RB housing) to suit a Rb25det

A bit of searching shows I need a spacer plate, custom dump and oil and water lines.

So I have a few questions

1. What thickness spacer plate and bolt lengths. Is there only one size available

2. Can I use my current bell mouth dump pipe and cut the Rb flange off and make it fit the new 5 bolt garrett flange. Is the bell mouth big enough?

3. What will be needed for the intake side of the turbo. Compressor oulet elbow size 63mm? Will the stock intake suction pipe fit?

4. What length oil and water lines.

5. Anything else?

Definitely get a 20mm spacer to get good clearance for the comp cover. So obviously you will need 20mm longer bolts or studs.

Yes you can keep your bell mouth but will need to modify it a bit as I did to allow for the considerable size difference between the .82 and the standard turbo.I just welded a 3" pipe onto the flange for the turbine outlet then a 2" pipe for the waste gate and joined them together with a bit of grinding and cutting. Works a treat. What I'd like to do though is start with the 3 and 2" pipes then into 4" dump to cat.

You'll need a new suction pipe in 63mm or just get some 3" pipe in 90deg. and weld a couple of fittings on in 10mm and 19mm I think from memory. These are for the blow off and oil mist from valve cover. Then get a silicon connector for intake to AFM and intake to turbo.

Oil and water I used a piece of wire to cut to length and shape of hose and went to local brake guy to make up new lines and connectors. Or go to Pirtek but they will over charge you. Come to think of it, the water line was the original and I just bent to suit.

Don't forget 3" hose clamps and because of the 20mm spacer you will need 2 gaskets. Oh and the turbine inlet is different to the spacer size so prepare to grind the spacer to suit for best flow. Don't try to keep blow off return pipes in original position, cut old metal pipe from just above the exhaust manifold and this will make it easier to put new rubber hose on new fittings on the intake.

Hope this helps. Just do a search on 3071 or 3076 and should be heaps of advice. If you have the PFC or some other management plus injectors and cooler then go the 3076 as my 3071 is at the end of compressor flow at 264kws and I recently went for a drive in a same setup but 3076 and practically no lag difference but 278kws @ 16lbs versus my 264 @ 18lbs.

Edited by skylinecouple

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...