Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i agree, and hence why i will be having a group buy soon

i have managed to secure an excellent price on vortech supercharger kits from the USA i will let you guys know more info soon

these kits the guys in america are punching out 298rwkw on 91ron fuel..........

is tat the one tat xiaolongbao selling?

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i agree, and hence why i will be having a group buy soon

i have managed to secure an excellent price on vortech supercharger kits from the USA i will let you guys know more info soon

these kits the guys in america are punching out 298rwkw on 91ron fuel..........

what sort of boost ? would have to be past 10psi more like 1 bar i think to get that power

and are these engines stock or rebuilt with better rods pistons and thicker head gasket?

would also need a new ECU/tune + injectors for that power me thinks

what sort of boost ? would have to be past 10psi more like 1 bar i think to get that power

and are these engines stock or rebuilt with better rods pistons and thicker head gasket?

would also need a new ECU/tune + injectors for that power me thinks

you can buy the complete kit which comes with the ecu / injectors

however i am looking at the tuner kits so we can use our own ecu / injectors like say a haltec or ems (something more familiar down here in oz)

and then yeh the kit comes with the walbro fuel pump also

you wont need a return fuel line

those figures were on a stock '04 model engine boost was only on 10psi / 91 ron fuel.........

it all comes down to the tuner i guess.........

here is the thread on G35 Driver

http://g35driver.com/forums/forced-inducti...hp-336rwtq.html

these are the prices so far........ trying to get them down a bit more

Full Kit w/ V3 - $4795.00 + $69.00 ship

Tuner Kit w/ V3 - $3595.00 + $69.00 ship

SHIPPING To AU - $395.00

For polished add $295.00

Pulley upgrade with the purchase of a kit = $49.00

if sold with a Tuner kit

Deatschwerk 440 injectors - $399.00 (6) (440)

Add $99.00 for 660

ECU UTEC txs-UTEC-350z - $699.00

Walbro 255 - $85.00

At first, i would prefer the HKS GT supercharger (just bcoz the brand)

After reading a lot of pages about vortech in US g35 forums, it seems like they love it and there are tons of information for it.. While not much info on HKS, other than it performs better at low-mid range but comes also with bad side (i forgot, coz too much reading, but can check if anyone needs the info)..

Alan, mind explaining a little more about long term under half bar boost? How bad did the engine ended up? does it go track very often or abused a lot?

Not sure, since my interest in FI has waned a lot (if I have the $10K to put down on engine mods, I'm building mine to displace 3.8L and rev to at least 8000RPM).

Most of the FI guys were saying that more than half a bar stresses the rods too much. How the Americans figured this out is beyond me

APS advertised their standard TT kit for the VQ35DE at 290rwkW @8-9psi on their site, but the installed figure that customers end up with was more like 280rwkW @7-8psi (figures with rounding).

The problem with a supercharger kit is that winding the boost down means buying a new pulley, which costs money, or fiddling with a bypass valve (which means your engine is taking parasitic loss for no power gain).

But the beauty of it is almost instant torque, better low range and generally better behaviour :D

I'm keeping mine n/a.. not much interest in FI personally. My previous car was turbo and boy was i happy when i moved to the V35.

I must admit though, i have at times thought of slapping on a dirty blower heh but n/a is my thing come the end of the day. I wonder if the kits you guys are looking at use a electro magnetic clutch.. that would be cool to have a switch on the s/c.. "hey wait a sec, let me turn on my blower.."

Not sure, since my interest in FI has waned a lot (if I have the $10K to put down on engine mods, I'm building mine to displace 3.8L and rev to at least 8000RPM).

Most of the FI guys were saying that more than half a bar stresses the rods too much. How the Americans figured this out is beyond me

APS advertised their standard TT kit for the VQ35DE at 290rwkW @8-9psi on their site, but the installed figure that customers end up with was more like 280rwkW @7-8psi (figures with rounding).

The problem with a supercharger kit is that winding the boost down means buying a new pulley, which costs money, or fiddling with a bypass valve (which means your engine is taking parasitic loss for no power gain).

There was a good link about this subject, around the area of FI Vs longativity of the stock engine. It was on G35 driver and has a list of its members who have gone FI on their G35, stating what kit they got whether it be SC, ST or TT, what year, model, miles used on the kit, whether or not they've modded their engine internals, quater mile time, power at the wheels, psi, if they blown their engine or not, any other mods etc etc, theres quite a list.

Some parts are actualy quite funny, becuase some guys have decided to go 15 or so psi with no aftermarket engine internals, cranking out 550rwhp or around that, over confidence was there greatest downfall when their engine blew, either that or shear stupidity.

http://g35driver.com/forums/forced-inducti...d-you-push.html

I found the thread very useful and is summarised at the first post. Hope it helps.

Dave

Edited by BIGGERDave
Hi Paul,

what brand spacer do you recommend, and where can I get it at?

Also anyone have any idea of installation costs?

Danny

Don't know which one is "BEST" but i got the Skunk2 Plemun Spacer becasue it is the easiest to put in.

Just do it yourself with this http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/274245 This guy has V1.0 you would get V2.0 (easier to put in)

Call Adam from http://www.999automotive.com.au/contactus.html (07) 3272 9992

Edited by V35_Paul
Don't know which one is "BEST" but i got the Skunk2 Plemun Spacer becasue it is the easiest to put in.

Just do it yourself with this http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/274245 This guy has V1.0 you would get V2.0 (easier to put in)

Call Adam from http://www.999automotive.com.au/contactus.html (07) 3272 9992

thanks paul, is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Inta...emZ270388307754

how much power increase u rekcon I can get with a spacer and new z tube?

thanks paul, is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Inta...emZ270388307754

how much power increase u rekcon I can get with a spacer and new z tube?

My opinion I reckon the motordyne spacer is better . Alot of Americans use this one over the skunk2 one and it's cheaper . My question is if the skunk is a good spacer then why did they have to bring out the skunk2 ??

And with the pop charger spacer and z-tube I'm hoping for 15-20 is at the wheels that's enough for me

thanks paul, is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Inta...emZ270388307754

how much power increase u rekcon I can get with a spacer and new z tube?

My opinion I reckon the motordyne spacer is better . Alot of Americans use this one over the skunk2 one and it's cheaper . My question is if the skunk is a good spacer then why did they have to bring out the skunk2 ??

And with the pop charger spacer and z-tube I'm hoping for 15-20 is at the wheels that's enough for me

My opinion I reckon the motordyne spacer is better . Alot of Americans use this one over the skunk2 one and it's cheaper . My question is if the skunk is a good spacer then why did they have to bring out the skunk2 ??

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think "Skunk2" is the actual brandname

At least you guys have some choices, I'm currently looking to get over a catback system from the US as I'll be farked if I can find a Japanese parts shop that makes one, only mufflers, or their products are US market only

All tuning parts are being made in the US for the infiniti boys, kind of ironic in a sense, I never thought I'd have to source tuning parts from America for japanese brand tuning parts :)

I know eventually more parts will become available, especially now the 370z is out, I'm bored with my car already!

Edited by Yo-Yo

Yup Skunk2 is the brand but for their spacer, they are upto version 2. Lol, bit confusing after the top post.

Can't wait to see the new 370z/370gt parts and the improvemets they will give :)

Yup Skunk2 is the brand but for their spacer, they are upto version 2. Lol, bit confusing after the top post.

Can't wait to see the new 370z/370gt parts and the improvemets they will give :)

i have been reading some threads about the 370z and the power gains are AMAZING!

especially in the stock exhaust, it is so restrictive.

On the 370Z, the americans have put in aftermarket exhaust, induction, and z tubes, and they are reaching 250RWKW! with just the induction / exhaust mods alone!

that is insane... the VQ35HR engine is awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...