Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've read quite a few threads talking about cruise control, so thought I'd put up my experience.

I put an electric one on, as I was a bit worried about mucking around with the vacuum...

I used a Rostra 'global cruise' - which has a lot of configuration settings - and a rf control unit on the steering wheel. We ended up bolting it to the top of the abs unit, and running the throttle cable around in a loop and back over the engine.. (see the attached pictures)

It works fantastically, and has tap up/down, resume etc, It’s also very good at NOT building up the speed to much at the top of hills. Overall accuracy is claimed to be 3%, and in practice it seems to be doing that – if you have it set on 100 on a country road, the needle only goes up or down by about the width of the needle ie some part of the needle stays on the 100 all the time..

One little trick was to attach the speedo sensor wire to the wire going from the speed sensor to the dashboard, NOT the wire going from the dashboard to he ECU, which didn’t work for some reason..

Hope that helps!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27163-cruise-control/
Share on other sites

A proper auto electrician in inner melbourne, they had the car for the day (it took them a few hours, as they hadn't put one of these in a skyline before) installation was perfect - all the wires are in sleaves, you can't tell they had the dash off, etc.

I was going to do it myself, but I needed it quickly and didn't want to muck around. Cost fully installed was about $750. If you want the actual place, I'm not sure what the post rules are (am I allowed to mention businesses?) but I can PM you…

If you’re somewhere in melb, I might be able to come for a cruise and show you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27163-cruise-control/#findComment-571882
Share on other sites

I think you can post a business name if just referring someone to go to them, free plug in other words. Unless your auto electrician is a bit shy to be famous... But you can't post business name in case of defamation (such as posting your bad experiences) as this can drag sau to defamation lawsuit etc, etc...

I'm of course in melbourne, but not planning to install one soon.

Just trying to get as much as business contacts for ppl who has done something in a skyline before (electrician, exhaust, etc, etc) just in case I need something in the future.

Inner melbourne would be great as it'll be easier for me to drop the car off on way to work and pick it up on way home.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27163-cruise-control/#findComment-571890
Share on other sites

Ian,

I'm also from Melb., S.E. Burbs. I have an R33 Auto & I miss cruise control (Had it in my Ti). Looked into this some time ago & was quoted $750 for the rostra & $250 (I think!) installation. Sounds like you got a fantastic deal so if you wouldn't mind, could you plz tell me where you got this done... PM me if you like.

Cheers,

C.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27163-cruise-control/#findComment-572385
Share on other sites

I used

C Q Auto Electrics

147 Church St Richmond 3121

(03) 9428 6476

and ask for Carlton.

They are on the corner of church st and highett st, and you can then catch a tram into town (work!) along bridge rd ie

http://www.street-directory.com.au/aus_new...&star=&heading=

If anybody needs more pictures, let me know, or if you want me to hoon around and show you I will if I can! I thought people would be interested, as we all use our skylines for cruising as well as hooning, surely :-)

And someone commented to me that it seems to be about the price for cruise controls ($750), but to emphasise what skyguy3804 said, most places quoting those types of prices aren’t supply Rostra ones and switches on the steering wheel…

And to answer one of the other comment, yep I use the skyline a lot, it's the 'family' car, as I have the four door r34 GT-T..

I've driven quite a few skylines (I lived in Japan in the late 90's), and I much prefer the r34 to the r33 and r32. Mind you, a done up r32 gtr isn't too bad either..

And on another note entirely, you might be interested to know that Anthony at Autobarn at 529 elizabeth st is a Skyline nut, he has already bought in quite a few skyline parts for the store, and has told me he will get me anything in that I might need… I haven’t tried him out yet, but he seems to know what he is talking about.

Is there a central thread or list anywhere of skyline resources in Melbourne that people have found to be good? If not, should we start one? I could start a list on my own internet page if anybody is interested and happy to contribute, as it’s sometimes pretty hard to find things in all these threads.. :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27163-cruise-control/#findComment-572701
Share on other sites

Thanx very muchly Ian, will endeavour to contact them in the not too distant future. Too many things I want to do... not enough money... isn't that how it goes?. Was looking at getting FMIC, now this has changed my perspective as I have wanted CC for so long now... What to do, What to do...

Cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27163-cruise-control/#findComment-572765
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...