Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I registered ages ago but never got around to posting. I have an imported R32 GT-R, done by KYP that I got about six months ago, but currently off the road for some minor repairs and fixes. It's a bit of a tatty example, but it still runs (Up until the alternator bolt worked loose and snapped the belt yesterday :)) fairly well. I can list the problems if people are so interested, but I doubt it. It's got a few bits and pieces; some 550cc injectors, Veilside ECU, pods, cross-drilled front rotors and some decent coilovers. And amazingly, a stock exhaust still. Attached is a picture of it (Only low quality phone camera); the fibreglass bonnet came with the car and the shopping list of stickers came from the precious owner and despite my best efforts, are still on there. With a few parts from a member on here, I'm hoping to have it up and running at full capacity in the next month or two (The car was heavily overboosting and impossible to drive over 4,000rpm if the engine and turbos were to live). That was fairly hard to live through; a year spent waiting on the car to arrive and pass inspection (Three times), to be stuck to under 5,000rpm and no boost was possibly the hardest thing ever. Look forward to meeting up with you guys in the future!

post-51224-1243350903_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271915-hi-all/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...