Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday I bought a car. The seller and I agreed on the price and settled it. However, I was unaware the the sale did not include the RWC, as his carsales ad stated. Which messed up our entire negotiation.

We discussed and came to the conclusion we'd get it checked out and see what the RWC would cost and sort it out from there.

He just sent me a message claiming he cannot get the RWC as it is too much hassle, and does not feel he should even need to get it checked out considering the low price we agreed on.

My question is, should I take the car anyway at its bargain price, and sort the RWC out myself, or lose the deposit and run.

From what I do know (we examined the car as we discussed the RWC):

- Tyres are near new.

- Windscreen is fine.

- All lights work, indicators etc.

I'm leaning towards sorting it out myself as the big killers (windscreen and tyres) are fine, but what other issues might I have to deal with? I'm just afraid of accepting the deal as it was and getting burnt with a hugely expensive RWC.

To clarify, what I'm asking is a list of possible problems the RWC might encounter and their cost to fix. Sorry if I'm asking a lot but I'm under a time constraint too.

Thanks guys.

Edited by KezR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272560-need-help-with-rwc/
Share on other sites

from experience, most garage will inspect on rotor thickness & pads, and that is the one that people often miss and didn't check.

worn rubber on brake & clutch pedals

worn / leaking shocks

modified / rusted / leaking exhaust

if the seller says getting rwc checked is too hassle for him, that kind of sounding a big alarm bell. probably he's tried done it before and something's very wrong that he knows it'll be a big hassle.

from experience, most garage will inspect on rotor thickness & pads, and that is the one that people often miss and didn't check.

worn rubber on brake & clutch pedals

worn / leaking shocks

modified / rusted / leaking exhaust

if the seller says getting rwc checked is too hassle for him, that kind of sounding a big alarm bell. probably he's tried done it before and something's very wrong that he knows it'll be a big hassle.

That's what I was concerned about.

So what's the worst outcome? $1000 for rotor pads and shocks? Will it be more?

If a cars in good nick you have nothing to worry about for an RWC only reason I can see he'd be so hesitant is he knows the mechanic is going to find something so he's pushing for a quick sale, I was going to buy a car for cheap and a guy was pushing for a quick sale as well. By suspicion got the best of me and I got it checked out by StateRoads set me back $260 but saved me from a HUGE investment the inspector said the car was so bad he refused to drive it to test it, it's been in multiple crashes and not one panel of the body work had the same paint depth (it's be resprayed many many times) It's a post here somewhere if you haven't seen it yet

That's what I was concerned about.

So what's the worst outcome? $1000 for rotor pads and shocks? Will it be more?

That would get you standard kyb shocks and rda slotted rotors with good pads im pretty sure, check the group buy section.

And if you are willing to share the info, a lot comes down to just how cheap you got it for.

if possible id try and get a check done on it before you buy it just so you know what your in for.

as stated above State Roads do a very thorough check on a car compared to say an racv check.

i do roadworthy checks at my work and we check things from...rotor thickness, pads, tyres, shocks, screen, seatbelts, dash controls, check for jig marks and evidence of accident...even if the oil is low just to name a few.

as said if the guy says its to much hassle to get a roady done on it then id be careful.

Edited by kizzza

I like this stateroads idea.

Gonna cost a shitload though. Website says $500, or $500 warrenty? I don't understand it.

Well, even $260 + $200 deposit is going going to hurt if the results come back poorly, but better that than losing the entire $11,000.

For reference I'm looking at '93 N/A Auto Supra with 150ks. Has a bunch of other minor mods too like exhaust, alarm, stereo, rims etc.

id seriously take it to get a roady and say if it passes ill buy it (or if its close to passing) but if its f**ked you can keep it (and try and get your deposit back)

good idea. he shouldn't have a problem with you sussing out what it needs for RWC before you buy.

can't say i'd buy a car with no idea what it needed in the way of repairs etc.

hope it all works out mate

We came to an agreement.

He must at least get a quote from a mechanic licensed to deliver RWCs on what the RWC will cost. If it is less than $500 I'll agree to the original price, if its more we'll have to renegotiate or I'll back out.

I'm gonna call up the mechanic before I buy though and confirm with him that if I bring the car in they'll agree to do the RWC for the quoted price.

Thanks for the help guys.

Got lucky.

One of the front shocks was leaking, and the mechanic would not pass it until it was fixed. However, you cannot use second hand shocks, and you cannot use aftermarket parts. It has to be a new and original part from Japan. Which costs a small sum of money and takes 5 weeks to get here!

It also gave me a pretty good excuse to bail out on the deal as the more I thought about the car the less I liked it. Little things were bothering me, like the wear and tear on the interior not matching odometer.

It had some wonderful things, like a beautiful custom paint job (not a cheap job, and nothing overly bright or flashy) - which is what I fell in love with in the first place, but everything else was annoying me too much.

you cannot use second hand shocks, and you cannot use aftermarket parts. It has to be a new and original part from Japan.

who told you that? :P so if you had brand spanking new coilovers it wouldn't pass? that doesn't sound right

However, you cannot use second hand shocks, and you cannot use aftermarket parts.
who told you that? :P so if you had brand spanking new coilovers it wouldn't pass? that doesn't sound right

Bullshit, i was worried about that when i had to clear a canary on my car, my guy told me that there not illegal, all who looks for is that the suspension has enough travel.

Also why cant you use second hand, as long as it no leaking and working correctly there is no problem, also kyb and i think monroe make a standard replacement shock.

You need to stop using that mechanic, he is a tool.

who told you that? :P so if you had brand spanking new coilovers it wouldn't pass? that doesn't sound right

The mechanic who did the testing.

I thought it was a bit suss too, but honestly I have dealt with enough shit for this car I didn't even care to chase it up. I hadn't even bought the thing and it was giving me the shits.

For the other guy who asked; it was a Toyota Supra.

Actually, I think you're right.

I didn't speak to the mechanic directly, this is just what the seller relayed to me.

I asked for the mechanic's number so I could contact him directly and sort something out, but he never got back to me, and since I'm not particularly interested in the car anymore I didn't hassle him either.

My guess is he was upset with the low price we agreed on (I always knew he didn't like it, I'm pretty sure it was the wife who pressured him into taking it), and was looking for a way out.

So hopefully that's a bullet dodged.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...