Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$15k is about right...all depends on how desperate he is :P

Also depends what mods have been done, you mention a few mild ones. with such high kms if it's been driven pretty hard you'd have to look at the 2nd timing belt change if it hasn't been done already, compression testing for sure to make sure you don't need a rebuild now. For such a high mileage car it's worth taking it to a mechanic to do proper tests not just 'safety checks'.

Gearbox/clutch might be pretty tired if they haven't been overhauled. You're getting to the stage where, even if looked after, the drivetrain would be starting to wear out badly to the point of needing bits replaced completely like diff and engine overhauls. 4cyl turbo I think you wouldn't want to travel more than 250,000km without some form of rebuild after 10 years.

See if it runs rough idling, if it does you might need to rebuild it soon anyway there could be a lot of wear on the valves, etc. if fully synth oil hasn't been used its whole life. Also things like suspension components should be on their 2nd set and wearing out bushes, absorbers, etc. all over again. Pads and rotors may need changing and are big dollar items. Things like rust, wear to the radiator, and loose parts that just wear out over time and mileage.

no lol thats in nsw for a start...! and thats not jdm.

i went to have a look, idles very rough, sound likes wrx, vibrations on idle. apparently one of the coilpacks have gone. car hasn't been thrashed.... dropped clutch at 2.5k rpm it slipped.! =O, but otherwise every thing is good. no rust or anything on the radiator engine bay?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...