Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have recently bought a 2004 350gt, i was looking at getting a custom exhaust system made, i was thinking about having 2 seperate 2,5" exhausts with a high flow cat and a high flow muffler on each one coming from the extractors, will i loose power because of too little back pressure, will i have to get a new ecu/tune. Has anyone tried this? Your help would be grately appreciated.

From what i believe changing the exhaust over on a V35 with give very little gains. As far as i can remember, someone over here changed headers and full exhaust and only got 6kw gain. So as far as money goes it seems like a waste.

Although it will sound a hell of a lot better! :P

You will gain power in the top end. You will lose power in the midrange.

I know several people who've tried true duals and had this issue. The installation of a cross pipe mitigates the problem to a certain extent. But not completely.

Compared to an aftermarket exhaust that runs a 2.5" Y pipe into a single mid pipe you'll see a few more rwkW on the dyno that you're not going to feel in the real world, but the car will feel noticably less strong while trying to rev up there.

You will gain power in the top end. You will lose power in the midrange.

I know several people who've tried true duals and had this issue. The installation of a cross pipe mitigates the problem to a certain extent. But not completely.

Compared to an aftermarket exhaust that runs a 2.5" Y pipe into a single mid pipe you'll see a few more rwkW on the dyno that you're not going to feel in the real world, but the car will feel noticably less strong while trying to rev up there.

nicely said, totally wat i feel after my fujitsubo. BUT!! taking into the consideration of the sound and look?? It's worth it~

But, do u mind me asking, comparing the true dual and y pipe, which would you prefer??

Also, any idea if true dual (example aps 2.5") will be louder than the fujitsubo? I have no chance to hear it anywhere :down:

seens there are no viable power gains from the exhaust what is the best bang for your buck na mod the keeps the low down torque and gives a decent gain, i have been looking at a hatech interceptor ecu piggyback has anyone had a ecu tune with a stock motor? what kind of rwkw would be gained with a ecu tune?

But, do u mind me asking, comparing the true dual and y pipe, which would you prefer??

I'd prefer a Y pipe, since I like keeping my car drivable. Loss of midrange is not ideal for a street car.

Also, any idea if true dual (example aps 2.5") will be louder than the fujitsubo? I have no chance to hear it anywhere :)

It'll boil down to the muffling rather than the plumbing. The APS 2.5" true dual has two mid mufflers (or resonators) as well as the rear muffler. APS says that, with the turbos in place, the car is ADR noise legal. While the turbochargers do muffle the exhaust gas, they also do cause a fair amount more of it to pass through the exhaust. :D

When I ran my HiTech exhausted 350Z on a dyno on the same day as another NA 350Z with an APS true dual, there was almost nothing in it when it came to volume.

I'd only look at going true dual if I was building on off-street car, or something with twin turbos. Even supercharged, I'd probably prefer the superior scavenging effects of the Y pipe but with a bigger diameter than what you'd use on NA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...