Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I am also a member of the Nissan Sports Car Club and i have managed to get us all an invite to their Dyno Day on Saturday 4th July

When: Saturday 4th July

Time: 8am START

Where: Autotech 18-20 George Street, Granville NSW 2142 Australia

ubdmap.gif

Schedual for the Day:

We will be starting at 8am, it will be $55 for the day per car. That will involve 2 power runs maybe 3, coffee tea and biscuits. A BBQ lunch and soft drinks will also be provided by Spiro and his Team and everyone will receive their Dyno sheet laminated.

As in the past it is a very well run day and for $55 is good value with lunch provided.

The Running order is first in best dressed and so on.

This invite is open to ALL V35'ers (Coupe and Sedan).

It has been a while we have all been discussing power output of our V's, so its time to get our there and see some REAL numbers.

Autotech is also the official installer for APS so maybe we can talk about getting these kits into our cars for some of the members who may be interested.

Spiro is very knowledgeable with the VQ series engines having worked on many customers 350Z.

Also, the Nissan Sports Car Club is an excellent CAMS AFFILIATED club so those of you who are looking for a great atmosphere in a club, which partakes in events such as supersprints, hill climbs, track days and weekly coffee meets, you are able to find out more about the club and join as well. :)

Check out the website : http://www.nissansportscarclub.org

Any info please PM me.

Cheers,

-Mark

For those of you who are interested in attending please add your name to the list in the posts below. I need a final number of attendees so i can let the NSCC know as they have to organise the food and drinks.

Attending

------------------------------

1. BLISTC (Mark)

2.

3.

4.

5.

Edited by BLISTC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274012-dyno-day-4th-july-2009/
Share on other sites

hey guys

the dyno is a 4wd dyno. shouldnt matter though all our cars are RWD unless someone has done some freekish DIY modifications :)

the time determined of how long you get your run all depends on who gets there first.

you may arrive at 8am and there allready be a few people there. so you may have to wait 1 hr or 2.

i will arrive around 10-11am and just see whos there, and book my place in. i dont mind waiting for my turn as usually good company and some bbq food makes up for the wait :)

-mark

  • 4 weeks later...

There were no V35's at the Dyno day. Jetwreck and I popped by in the afternoon to see what the place was like and it looked like a good workshop and facilities.

Apparently about 33 cars went through on the day, S15's and Fords and Holdens.

Saving the M35 for the next one.

i didnt make it down as i got rostered on to work.

was a good turnout though, spoke to some of the guys on nissansilvia was a great day.

i got next weekend off so i might go to the IS motor racing dyno day i think its on the sunday, 11th

i just installed all my mods now, z tube, i did the grounding kit today and also the plenum spacer last week.

:P

hey mateb what numbers was ur car pulling from meoery bone stock ur car was 178kw atw?

i didnt make it down as i got rostered on to work.

was a good turnout though, spoke to some of the guys on nissansilvia was a great day.

i got next weekend off so i might go to the IS motor racing dyno day i think its on the sunday, 11th

i just installed all my mods now, z tube, i did the grounding kit today and also the plenum spacer last week.

:)

yeh was 178kw @ the wheels

since then like i said it got the plenum spacer, and intake and grounding kit. thats all that should effect power. also i got wider rear wheels, dont know how that will effect the dyno. the car definately feels faster since the new mods put it, i can attest to that.

the dyno day is @ IS motor racing on Saturday 11th July (this sat) so yeh come down if you guys are free.

BLISTC,

Will be *very* curious to see your results!

I think ISMR's dyno tends to be on the lowish side when reading power but that's the dyno i go by as my last 3 cars have only gone to ISMR.

The wider rear wheels will decrease your power reading slightly as they should be a bit heavier hence sapping more power in the drivetrain loss.. but not by much unless it's massive weight difference.

Curious to see results now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...