Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Nissan Skyline Gt25t Boost Problem


Recommended Posts

Hi

first i change the intake manifold to greddy intake copy and the throttle i put 80mm one whit other Nissan TPS, but right now the car make boost stop and it never make boost with the car stop.

when i press the accelerator fast it make 7 psi of boost. it is a problem o its normal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it would be unlikely you can make 7psi boost sitting there

i'd suggest you have some sort of leak, vacuum issue or your reading the guage wrong

where are you seeing 7psi boost at "stop"

on the standard guage?

please tell us what you see

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we would need some sort of translator to understand what you just said. boost is generally made when the car is under load. ie when you are driving the car. reading the guage whilst revving the car is not accurate. What guage are you using? I run an autometer guage which is quite accurate. however the stock guage is terrible, some may work fine but mine is very inaccurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

first i change the intake manifold to greddy intake copy and the throttle i put 80mm one whit other Nissan TPS, but right now the car make boost stop and it never make boost with the car stop.

when i press the accelerator fast it make 7 psi of boost. it is a problem o its normal?

wha?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry for my bad english, really sorry

i have an autometer phantom gauge, and have a Nismo Cluster, the car made boost whit the car not load, with the shift in neutral i press the accelerator and it make boost.

but before it never made that. the only thing i change was the intake manifold, TPS and throttle to 80mm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry for my bad english, really sorry

i have an autometer phantom gauge, and have a Nismo Cluster, the car made boost whit the car not load, with the shift in neutral i press the accelerator and it make boost.

but before it never made that. the only thing i change was the intake manifold, TPS and throttle to 80mm.

Well if ur sitting and rev ur engine to or close to redline it should go onto boost, but probably not by much at all, enough to make it dose though lol.

Maybe coz of ur mods ur car's letting in more air and creates a bit of boost even wen its not on load/in gear while driving

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well if ur sitting and rev ur engine to or close to redline it should go onto boost, but probably not by much at all, enough to make it dose though lol.

Maybe coz of ur mods ur car's letting in more air and creates a bit of boost even wen its not on load/in gear while driving

thanks

some people tell me it can make 1 or 2 PSI but it make 5 or 6 psi of boost and the boost controller is set to 7 psi. i think is irregular that car retard a lot the ignition.

why the car now is retarding the ignition when its not on load/in gear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks

some people tell me it can make 1 or 2 PSI but it make 5 or 6 psi of boost and the boost controller is set to 7 psi. i think is irregular that car retard a lot the ignition.

why the car now is retarding the ignition when its not on load/in gear.

Yeah 5 to 6 is pretty high. at how much rpm does it make this boost?

Yeah lke Paulr33 said, i'd check for some kinda leak. u got a stock ecu?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah 5 to 6 is pretty high. at how much rpm does it make this boost?

Yeah lke Paulr33 said, i'd check for some kinda leak. u got a stock ecu?

i have:

- a stock ecu,

-Blitz intercooler (well i change the intercooler pipe to 3" in the intake side and the turbo side it's 2.5".)

when you say leak what kind of leak do you refer?

i see the boost at 5000 to 6000 RPM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They mean an air leak somewhere.

Just a stab in the dark, but with the new manifold setup and new TPS could the ECU being reading things wrong and think its under more load than it actually is?

Is the car driving/boosting normally under load?

Have you reset your ECU since you made the changes?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They mean an air leak somewhere.

Just a stab in the dark, but with the new manifold setup and new TPS could the ECU being reading things wrong and think its under more load than it actually is?

Is the car driving/boosting normally under load?

Have you reset your ECU since you made the changes?

yes the car drive and boosting normally, i think something is retard the ignition time and for this the car is boosting with not load.

Reset= i take out the battery for few minutes and put it again.

i have to do another reset?

could the TPS with more voltage than before retard the ignition?

after the TPS have 0.22 close and 3.97 open, now have 0.55 close and 4.XX open.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can reset 3 different ways, by unplug battery and depress the brake peddle a few times when unplugged to drain any remaining power. Or you can do the reset/diagnostic by bridging the consult port or by turning the screw on the ECU itself to run diagnostic test & reset. do some searching. But if you did that already you shouldn't have to again.

I cant say about the effect the TPS voltages could have, thats beyond my knowledge. Hopefully someone else can answer that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can reset 3 different ways, by unplug battery and depress the brake peddle a few times when unplugged to drain any remaining power. Or you can do the reset/diagnostic by bridging the consult port or by turning the screw on the ECU itself to run diagnostic test & reset. do some searching. But if you did that already you shouldn't have to again.

I cant say about the effect the TPS voltages could have, thats beyond my knowledge. Hopefully someone else can answer that.

Hi

today i do:

1- Reset the Stock ECU

2- check the check engine led the only code is 55- No Malfunction

3- my ecu dont have a screw dont red led and green led dont know why

4- the timing is 15 grade

5- i conect a Emanage Ultimate and record the data log if somebody want help i can send.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
×
×
  • Create New...