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use this to your advantage.... make sure you end up with this. Its full of awesomeness. charcoal grey and 19" wheels.

1967-Volvo-Amazon-600-hp-Front-And-Side-1280x960.jpg

I've had the pics of that car since it came out. Love it so much I can even forgive it for being a bloody volvo.. :P Have you seen the interior? Its just as incredible, the trans tunnel is off the charts.

There's a few inspirational classic wagons about to use as a source of ideas, the VW square back has been done well many times (I looked at getting one before I got the cedric but the guy wanted top dollar for a car with rust holes so big you could get your fist through them)

For those interested this is square back done in a similar way to how I'd like to approach the cedric

527607.jpg

Just keep in mind that if you retain a pre 1970's motor you don't have to worry about emission laws and noise restrictions.

That was considered but the appeal/novelty of a more modern drivetrain was to hard to resist. Plus an Rb mill in a running donor car is relatively easy to source as a starting point. All be it just the tip of the iceburg.

While we're talking "pro touring" wagons here's two more that make me drool all over my self.

1 This is the riddler winning rambler with a ferrari mill behind the drivers seat. absolute car porn.

0703sr_25_z1960_rambler_ferrari_pow.jpg

2 This is a car that never existed. Its a 56 chrysler 300 coupe converted into a 2 door wagon. The caliber of workmanship is beyond belief. I have to admit i'm also a chrysler nut!

2637370044_5a5a583773.jpg

Purple one is a Laurel.

I think he probably knows, the pic was more likely intended to be a comment on styling.

I'll put this out there, as much as I think the whole zuki this is cool/interesting I can't say I'd ever personally consider putting together something like that.

Be prepared for lots of custom fabrication on the Cedric in order to bring it into the 21st (dare I say 20th?) century.

Yeah thats been on my mind from the get go, I guess its the natural trade off for trying to do something a bit different. I've got a few ideas about how I intend to combat that that I'll throw up on line when I've got more time.

Firstly thanks for the replys, its funny how having people make comments on the project really pumps up the enthusiasm.

One thing I'm surprised no one has asked is why I'm even bothering to attempt this, cause I'd be stuffed if I could answer that one other than why not.

Ok on to business. Here are some of the ideas I've been working over in my head: Comments are welcome, ideas are appreciated but if you just want to rag on me expect a prompt negative response.

As I have a complete aus spec R31 skyline I'd like to use as much of it as I can to update the cedric. In some ways this makes things twice as challenging because I'm working on ways to udate the cedric and at the same time ways to update the R31......

1: Drivetrain: RB30/25det + 5 speed and R31diff. Alloy rad & intercooler both blacked out.

2: Front suspension: This is where it gets interesting the R31 has a strut style suspension where as the cedric runs coils. I'm wondering if I should bother try to improve the cedric's suspension & brakes using the stock running gear as a platform or do I use the whole R31 front end. ie struts, Lca's, cross member, strut towers, etc etc. As much as option 2 sounds like much more work I wonder if in terms of work vs reward it may be the better option. The second option may even mean grafting the R31 clip on to the stock rails. This kind of idea is done a lot with 40's & 50's customs that often have limited range of spare parts.

3: How the front brakes will be done will be determined by the factors listed above but I have a pair of R33 gtst calipers and rotors I'd like to use. (I know that they require adapters to use them with the R31 stuff)

4: Rear End: I'll keep the stock R31 brakes and convert it to 5 stud, until I compare track widths I won't know if the diff will need shortened. I'll try to use the stock geometry but a custom 3 or 4 link isn't out of the question.

5: Anything thats usefull from the skyline will be retained, ie fuel tank, brake booster & MC, clutch, dash with mods, front seats, main electrical harness, engine will be the RB25's harness and ecu.

6: The cedrics body is for the most part quite good and the car came with lots of trim. Here are the plans for the body work: Shave antenna holes, door handles & drip rails. Add a roll-pan to the rear and re-locate the number plate from the tail gate. Delete most of the trim.

Of course all thats left to do now is everything but that outlines what I'm planning to do to hopefully create a tough street car that can also be taken to an autocross or drag day and be fun to drive.

Edited by Linkstar

Awesome concept. It's going to be soo sweet once it's done. Congratulations on building something unique.

A friend and I were talking about how many Gf's our cars have out lasted during their builds but in your cedric's case it will be BF's :)

If your registering in in qld you can only increase the track 10mm each side. In NSW if you put the whole crossmember/suspension/steering setup in, you class it as a cedric body and r31 front end. This way you get the increased track without the engineering rego hassles. This rule doesn't apply to QLD they don't recognise the different crossmember as coming from another car and still class the whole vehicle as a cedric.

On top of that you won't have to get the engine mounts made up using the whole crossmember another bonus. If your going to go to the trouble of installing a 4 link wouldn't it be better to install a s13 irs cradle/suspension? you'd have better rear end for a similar amount of effort.

It's expensive though, I've forked out thousands and thousands getting the irs and crossmember fitted to the vert so be ready to spend all your pocket money.

When people ask me why I've done it I say I saw the devil one night in a vision and he asked me to build him a car . . .

What strengthening will you be carrying out to the shell?

Awesome concept. It's going to be soo sweet once it's done. Congratulations on building something unique.

A friend and I were talking about how many Gf's our cars have out lasted during their builds but in your cedric's case it will be BF's :)

HAHA, Indeed, well I am the BF so I hope not in this case as I'd hate to do all the fab work on the cedric and not get access to it.

If your registering in in qld you can only increase the track 10mm each side. In NSW if you put the whole crossmember/suspension/steering setup in, you class it as a cedric body and r31 front end. This way you get the increased track without the engineering rego hassles. This rule doesn't apply to QLD they don't recognise the different crossmember as coming from another car and still class the whole vehicle as a cedric.

Unfortunately I'm in Qld so there is also a lot of restriction to deal with when I comes to suspension modification. I only want the track to increase about the legal amount any way because I want the wheels to fit under the guards. One way of using the R31 cross member will be sectioning it in the middle. This will of course loose the use of the engine mounts but retain the LCA and steering mounts, it may also mean there is less sump interference than with most of these conversions. Loosing the factory engine mounts would be a PITA but it does give a good excuse to send the engine back and down..... lol

On top of that you won't have to get the engine mounts made up using the whole crossmember another bonus. If your going to go to the trouble of installing a 4 link wouldn't it be better to install a s13 irs cradle/suspension? you'd have better rear end for a similar amount of effort.

hmmmm, you know I swing in and out of favour for IRS constantly but for this car I don't see the need. I can't see it being an incredible corner carver any way and a good 3 Link should be fine. Since the car will need a modified gearbox mount I was thinking something like this could update the 3rd member with out having to cut out that much floor.

The 3 link I'm thinking of is like what RRS have been using for years to update old leaf sprung mustangs. (pictured below) It uses the old leaf forward mounts and a long torque arm mounted off the gearbox cross member. The diff is kept centred by a watts link or panard bar.

3linkcomponents.jpg

under.jpg

It's expensive though, I've forked out thousands and thousands getting the irs and crossmember fitted to the vert so be ready to spend all your pocket money.

When people ask me why I've done it I say I saw the devil one night in a vision and he asked me to build him a car . . .

When people ask me whey we're doing it I just tell them we're bogans....... lol

What strengthening will you be carrying out to the shell?

Everything will be beefed up where needed, until I look at the car more closely I can't make many calls about that yet. I've been told that my cedric is a full frame car but I'm not 100% on that. If it is then life is good.

That's a real nice live-axle setup, and would be on my shopping list if I had something like an old 'stang.

Somehow I don't think our 1200 ute justifies something like that though!

That one looks great but I've seen a few garage built versions that look good and are supposed to work really well. As far as a custom suspension set up that has a bit of adjustment but isn't an engineering nightmare this seem like a good compromise. Once you start reading about 4 link design the more reluctant you'd be to try and make one. They are an art form when your putting one into a stock car with a floor pan and all sorts of things in the way.

Yes, I've seen several 4-link setups that have been done & re-done because the geometry was stuffed up by cowboys. You may find that an H190 live-axle with a watts linkage or panhard might be a simple fitup. It all depends how close your model is to the later '70's models.

BTW, what's the model designation? I probably have the full parts data as a pdf.

If you put the 4 link in and sort the front end I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at just how much off a corner carver it will turn out to be :D it's going to be one nice ride when it's finished, how long have you planned for the build?

Have you thought about a different donor car with a smaller track to the R31 so you don't have to cut the diff and crossmember down?

If you put the 4 link in and sort the front end I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at just how much off a corner carver it will turn out to be :blink: it's going to be one nice ride when it's finished, how long have you planned for the build?

Have you thought about a different donor car with a smaller track to the R31 so you don't have to cut the diff and crossmember down?

I hope the car is good in the corners because we'd definitely like to have some fun at track days but I figure by setting my sights realisticly dissapointment is less likely.

Your point about the donor is definitely relevent, a car with a closer track would definitely make some things easier but as far as bang for buck goes the R31 is great. We can use so much of the car its not funny and given that diff shortening is not really that exotic I can cop that. The front is a bit of a challenge but by making the car a modified R31 suspension wise it opens up parts availablility considerably, and keeps it all nissan. (not that I really care that much my valiant has a ford diff, toyota brakes and a GM ecu..... lol)

If you stiffen up the body and upgrade the suspension/steering/braking I'd be amazed if it didn't handle quite nicely.

It may all turn out quite easy if this websites information is true

http://www.carbuddy.com.au/car/values/spec....aspx?gid=30193

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/2..._dimensions.jpg

As you can see the body width is the same on the cedric as the R31 so there might be enough space underneath. Hopefully the crossmember won't need to be cut at all, you might get away with just rolling the inside lip on the guards and this could go for the rear as well. You'll only know for sure when you put the r31 setup under the cedric body.

If you stiffen up the body and upgrade the suspension/steering/braking I'd be amazed if it didn't handle quite nicely.

It may all turn out quite easy if this websites information is true

http://www.carbuddy.com.au/car/values/spec....aspx?gid=30193

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/2..._dimensions.jpg

As you can see the body width is the same on the cedric as the R31 so there might be enough space underneath. Hopefully the crossmember won't need to be cut at all, you might get away with just rolling the inside lip on the guards and this could go for the rear as well. You'll only know for sure when you put the r31 setup under the cedric body.

There you go, method to my maddness afterall. I did have a feeling that the track and width would be closer than expected considering the cedric was Nissan's first real crack a large family car but as I haven't starting pulling both apart I'm still on the fence about a lot of stuff.

BTW you did so much better than I did getting that info I searched for yonks and could find anything as complete as that. Cheers

i remember seeing a 2 door one of these (i think) brown with white roof, sitting abandoned near flinders st station in melb

got towed and never recovered, i think a scrap dealer bought it in the auction

sad

FWIW this one was saved from a scrap metal place as well and the 20L runs! crazy what people just throw away.

Figured I'd throw up a couple of pics of my parts progress.... Not as good as real progress but unfortunately the daily drives have been taking workshop priority at the moment. Grrrr

Heres a pick of the donor............ wow boring! stock rb30,5speed peg leg third memeber & AC. Oh well still lots of usefull stuff in there to be salvaged for the cedric and the rest will be sold off for cheap to help fund the cedric.

10052009027.jpg

Now onto some fun stuff.

Brakes: After going round in circles for ages and reading every R31 brake upgrade post I could find I've got my game plan down.

Floating hub - cut disks off and machine whats left then re-drill for 5 Lug. This is a pic of a hub someone else has done (Not Me can't claim the work) before final machining to fit inside the R33 disk.

brakes_hub_machined_Aus31.jpg

This is to avoid spending time looking for rare parts and spending more money on something that can be made.

Here are the disks and calipers waiting for their new home.

20070517151946.jpg

Fuel reg for turbo conversion, got it for next to nix with the disks from another great member here on SAU not from the ebay mob in the photo.

FMU_4.jpg

Underdash Ac: I actually bought this for a muscle car I'm building but then realised you have to be a complete goldchainer to want AC in a muscle car. The one on the bottom is the one I have.

1292_1.jpg

And most importantly the redneck welding cart (thanks woolies) for sheet metal work and tacking mock ups, obviously any heavy stuff will be done by a larger scale weder in the hands of a profesional welder.

05102008068.jpg

More bits to come soon

man i am seriously jealous of your back yard and shed. living in New Farm sucks balls for doing up my car.

The last shot with the welder is at my folks place. (where my chrysler coupe lives) They have a farm with a massive shed that I'd love to take over. At home I've got a 3 bay shed which is great compared to when I lived in a shoebox with a carport only about 6 months ago....

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