A31 Body/chassis Allignment?

[Nic_A31]

I know the "service manual" question has been covered before more than once, but before I go buying any off the internet, do any of these manuals have chassis alignment diagrams in them?

I've got some vibration somewhere above 60, and the car was sold stupidly cheap to the guy that sold it to me, so I've got a bad feeling about it.

On top of that, anyone know if there is anywhere I can check to see if the car has been "structurally" written off by any insurance companies? Can I ring the DPI and check for that kind of info ??

Even if there are diagrams out there in Japanese, that'll do, numbers are easy to translate.

Anyone?

Cheers

-Nic

[TAKUSHI]

weeell theres a number of different things like looking along the chassis rail looking for welds, especially round the front end of the car incase its had a front cut welded on, also like mine check in the front wheel arches to check for any irregularities like if its twisted out shape, also check to see if the area under the battery or area under the where the air box goes is twisted or bent, and then you can pretty much do the same in the boot, just pull up the floor covering and check it out for signs of being pushed outa shape

[Nic_A31]

Havent looked during daylight, but it all appears ok under the work light.

VIN number is still on the car, so good sign....I guess.

The front suspension is low and stiff (cant fit 2 fingers between wheel and fender), the rear is...well, stock height if I ever saw it, and pretty loose, factory or slightly lower I guess, can't really tell if its uneven on one side, but the car drives pretty straight, doesnt sway away unless the diff is skipping, and even then, it co-operates.

Sound isnt audible at -60, havent tested it at 80-100+ yet, dont fancy pushing my luck that far with the thing until it's properly rego'd.

Sounds like that thunder sound when you're driving with the sunroof open all the way back, but since resealing all the doors and making sure the sunroof is closed, the sound is still present.

Will jack it up and have a look for any welds/ghetto repair attempts

Cheers Dude

[TAKUSHI]

maybe, if it hasnt got coilovers in it, then it might have cut springs in it, but yeah i got that thunder noise when mine wasnt crashed haha, it was air escaping through the front passenger door coz the door wasnt sealing at the top along the door rubber, and any air entering through the air vents escaped through that door so if you take it out for a drive soon check that. I blame a crash previous to me owning it that caused that

[SideWaysChef]

What colour is it..... and who did you buy it off of?

sounds like my old car......

and I will be able to answer most of your questions.

still VERY pissed off I let go of this car....it was a weapon and I let it go....but SHIT HAPPENS I spose.

send me a message buddy

[Nic_A31]

Got it from Queensland, and no paint at the moment.

The story of my car goes a little something like this:

Low KMs, so I would assume imported recently, rego'd in NSW in 2006, it ended up in QLD sometime, I found this link:

https://cars2.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Cefiro-Tur...emZ130300698767

(click no to the prompt to view page properly)

Althought it sold for $1500, that Seller has a bad rating for "didnt sell at listed price and relisted item at higher price" or something, so

i dont know how much it sold for, in those photo's, it appears the same condition as the photo's from the page I bought it from

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Cefiro-rb20-...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Although it is now listed as having a HD Clutch, and unlike the first sale, doesnt state that the car "starts first time", "just needs a service", but now has an exhaust leak. Car runs fine, the exhaust leak is throwing hot air right into the filter, so combustion is shithouse, but it runs, it struggles to start, almost like its cold or the battery isnt big enough, but yeah, starts and runs.

My compliance plate cert's an RB20DE and Auto, but its got a turbo and 5 speed, the first sale listed these. The conversion looks pretty clean and overall well done, but another problem Ive run into, need a new compliance plate, or bigger brakes to match the turbo 5 speed models to pass pits.

EDIT: First sale ended April 27, sold for lack of stage space

Second sale to me was on May 14, again, lack of stage, needed money for upcoming 30th and was moving house when I let him know the car arrived here in WA

Im hoping this car hasnt been thrashed too badly.

What do you guys reckon ?

I'm just about to go and check all the door seals I fitted the other night before I noticed the sound for the first time, hopefully my paranoia ends at that, will updated in a few hours.

-Nic

Edited June 11, 2009 by Nic_A31

[Nic_A31]

Checked all the seals quickly and did some laps, the thunder sounds a little different, not as loud but a little more frequent, steering wheel is giving some feedback when driving, is kind of pulling a little bit, but usually not much unless the diff wants to jump around.

Guess its time to check wheel allignment + tire pressure, and if that atleast sort of helps, get my suspension out of the way first ??

Cefiro + Wet Roads = Awesome

[toffy]

so it has a vibration? and you've checked all the bolts/tailshaft etc underneath? . i wouldn't worry too much about wind noise as it looks like its been pulled apart to be painted?

[Nic_A31]

It ended up being ONE orange plastic clip that holds the weather seal to the door, it was on the driver's door, just below the strut.

i've got one or two left over, but pretty sure Im missing a few more than just the two.

I suppose Nissan want $3.00 each for them ??

[AdMan]

maybe, if it hasnt got coilovers in it, then it might have cut springs in it, but yeah i got that thunder noise when mine wasnt crashed haha, it was air escaping through the front passenger door coz the door wasnt sealing at the top along the door rubber, and any air entering through the air vents escaped through that door so if you take it out for a drive soon check that. I blame a crash previous to me owning it that caused that

Know how that feels, I get the most annoying whistle through the exact same spot, know its at the top somewhere, but never actually looked into it. Wouldnt know where to start, or where to fix it really. Whole door looks to be different from the rest of the car. Guess whoever had it before me, never put it back on properly.

[daisu]

Try loosening the door hinges and realigning the door it if that is the problem?

Edited June 20, 2009 by daisu

[Nic_A31]

I've taken some pictures tonight of the underside of my chassis and in need of some advice.

Can anybody PLEASE add me on MSN and I can show some pics ??

I'm pretty sure my Cef is f**ked, but just need some other views on it. Wheather or not it is actually completely f**ked, if its fixable, etc

[email protected]

[esky_mad]

i smashed my old ceffy, the front left chassis rail ended up kinked in the firewall. still drove fine, so dodgy rattles etc even though the front left corner was making the rest of the car crab...

put some pics up here.... i had many funny rattles when i first got it, could be any number of things...

oh yeah and my old ceffy doest exist, so your not in ownership of it.

[Nic_A31]

Here's the worst looking one. Mainly the chassis rails go up and down, but dont soo much warp off path.

Judging by how quickly the rust has built up at the scratches, it is recent, and the seller claims no knowledge of it. Some shit on the con note for the vehicle freight differ from one end to the other, so I'll be having a chat to them, wouldnt suprise me if they took it for a thrash, floored it up and down the ramps, etc.

The panels are out lf line as well, the gap between panels will start at like 10mm at the top end at the bottom its down to 2-3.

This applies to front right, bonnet (right), rear left, boot (left side).

Yeah, I know, its a drift piggy, just weld it up and she'll be fine, but I'm way too much of a perfectionist to drive it knowing its like this.

[Nic_A31]

In terms if the rails, they are straight and parrallel, its just the dents up and down I can see, and the panel alignment.

Another thing, that same vibration while driving is even heavier when its jacked up, alot of shaking, it kicks in at the same speed and since its not moving its own weight, the vibration gets worse alot quicker, to the point where I can't have the wheels doing over 50kmp/h without it trying to jump off the stands.

Somewhere in the drivetrain isnt bolted in properly, but where do I start?

Engine mounts look almost brand new, and seated properly (and doesnt move around even the slightest bit when revving up), havent checked the gearbox < tailshaft < diff < axles < wheels

[Conrad 2NR]

I have seen the drive-shaft centre bushing go bad on a few. The bushing which has the drive-shaft passing through the centre comes loose around the edges where it comes into contact with the metal bracket.

I would check that first.

[toffy]

change the wheels and send the tailshaft to get balanced/checked

[Nic_A31]

Cheers guys.

Finish off those rears and get a set of matching 4, go 5 stud, and I'll pull the tailshaft out and have a squizy.

[daisu]

Check the gearbox crossmember. Mine had the wrong crossmember in and was causing all sorts of vibrational problems.

[Nic_A31]

Will check that too, it has been converted from 20E auto to 20DET manual, but I dont know what Im looking for?

Happen to have any pics showing the difference mate? Would be hugely appreciated.