Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This is my Pedders experience.

Had the wheel alignment done on my R33GTS-T and it came back with a large scratch in the left rear quarter panel - which they obviously denied doing. Had a great fight with them when I asked them to use Gary's (Sydneykid) settings for the wheel alignment - they did it but with much complaining and probably resulted in the scratch.

Prices are very expensive - 12mm camber bolts Pedders = $115, Whiteline $79

The only thing going for them is that they stock front ball joints for R32/R33/R34 GTS-T's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274952-pedders/page/3/#findComment-4826267
Share on other sites

so they measured up my car to see how much lower it will be with there sports ryder springs. (i have nismo s type struts and an unknown but firm spring, that i figured was stockish height)

aparently they will raise the car 10mm both ends. wtf type of lowering spring is that!!!

*starts saving for coilovers* (not pedders)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274952-pedders/page/3/#findComment-4826489
Share on other sites

meh pedders here don't even stock more than about 4 parts for R32 GT-R/4 suspension and the guy took a look at my car and says 'hmm haven't seen many of those', would rather get stuff done at goodyear - at least the guys there had a good idea of how an R32's suspension works!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274952-pedders/page/3/#findComment-4826585
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

Hi all, first time poster and owner of a skyline R34. went to get it looked at by a local mechanic coz the steering wheel was vibrating a bit on idle. He said I needed to get the front radius rod bushes replaced and suggested I go to pedders coz it's an import.

So I go to pedders and got them replaced for $260 but then they told me that they couldnt do the wheel alignment coz the steering gear is leaking internally and will cost another $1100 odd dollars to fix.

Just wanted to know if this sounded reasonable and should I be looking around elsewhere to see if it is bull. Can anyone recommend someone in melbourne, particularly in the western suburbs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274952-pedders/page/3/#findComment-5428632
Share on other sites

So I go to pedders and got them replaced for $260 but then they told me that they couldnt do the wheel alignment coz the steering gear is leaking internally and will cost another $1100 odd dollars to fix.

Just wanted to know if this sounded reasonable and should I be looking around elsewhere to see if it is bull. Can anyone recommend someone in melbourne, particularly in the western suburbs?

No it's not reasonable. A second hand steering rack should only be 300 or so, and it isn't that much in labour to install. Also, I can't see how a leak would prevent them from doing a wheel alignment. Just go somewhere else to get the alignment done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274952-pedders/page/3/#findComment-5431439
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...