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Hi, have fallen in love with a new ride, so my baby is up for sale. The wife says 2 cars in the garage is more than enough, so the 34 has to go :D

Black R34GTT

RB25DET

Tiptronic Auto

157,xxxkm - but replaced suspension, radiator, trans cooler, turbo etc etc.

Never been 1/4 mile or track raced - used primarily as my work vehicle, not weekend racer.

JJR FMIC

HKS Cat-back Exhaust

Apexi Exhaust Control Valve

XForce high flow cat

Advance stainless steel bellmouth front/dump pipe

HKS 25/30 Turbo

Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump

Cooling Pro Radiator

Upgraded Tranmission Oil Cooler

Engine Oil cooler kit with braided lines

GTR copy front bar (standard bar can be fitted instead if you prefer)

Apexi Power intake pod

CAI air box

6,000k HIDs

Autobahn88 Silicon Radiator hoses

Autobahn88 Slicon induction pipe

JVC single din MP3 playable stereo

DLS split front speakers

Sony Xplod rear speakers

Autometer triple gauges (Water, Oil temp, Boost psi)

Twin Thermo fans (near new)

Leatherette front seat covers

RDA gold passivated slotted & dimpled rotors (fitted 4 weeks ago)

ADR approved braided brake lines (fitted 4 weeks ago)

Motul Dot5 brake fluid (whole system drained and bled through 4 weeks ago)

QFM HPX brake pads (fitted 4 weeks ago)

Gold 17" Rays Gram Lights 57C rims

Sydneykid spec adjustable height Bilsteins

Sydneykid spec Whiteline springs and adjustable sway bars

Viper alarm with active keyfob monitoring, break/tilt sensors, 4 point immobilisation and remote start/window windup

Factory etched/tinted privacy glass rear windows

Nismo clear front and side indicators

Dyno 225rwkw with safe Willall Racing tune. See dyno graph attached - under 12psi boost. Turbo and setup is good for much more boost, but we kept it conservative with a bleed valve at 12psi. More boost could easily be fed in for more power with the addition of an electronic boost controller.

Very comfortable to drive, and hasn't missed a beat. Water pump and thermostat replaced 20,000km ago. Most mods done in the past 18 months. Car was brought in from Japan through Prestige Motorsport by myself around 3.5 years ago.

Many original parts available for sale or with the car pending negotiations.

Religiously serviced with Motul 8100 every 5,000km. Trans fluid changed 20,000km ago. Freshly serviced incl. Platinum plugs.

Tiptronic auto with steering controls is simply awesome. Don't knock it until you have tried it - excellent response and no more missing gears or heavy/difficult twin plate clutches. You can cruise like a granny when you want to, or drive you like you stole it with steering wheel F1 style gear controls.

Pics attached are from various times in recent history, will post pics of freshly painted front bar and new boot below.

Totalled receipts for above mods at $12,000 all spent in the past 3.5 years. That is the price of parts only. All of the mods above would total over $19k purchased and installed.

Currently insured with Just Cars for agreed value of $24,000 including all mods listed and included. Costs me around $1,000 per year insurance, over 25 Rating 1.

$24,000 ono. Can arrange shipping Aus wide for around $500 or less. Happy to contribute to flight costs of interested interstate buyers.

Price drop to $20,000 - need to move this car people.

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Something a bit newer for work that I can depreciate the heck out of to get rid of some tax :D

Sad to see her go - really is an awesome car. Quick too, needless to say.

sorry to see you sell your car andrew, but I think mine is going up for sale in the next few days as well, Im heading to TT Supra land instead

Dual din DVD player/stereo removed and replaced with a JVC MP3 deck.

Sub box, 12" Alpine sub and Boss amp removed.

DLS splits left in the doors and will go with the car.

Price drop $22k - or $21k with R33 stockies.

Photo below taken on Monday. Car can be sold with the stock bar currently on, or freshly painted R34GTR style bar.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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