Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to change the rear of my R33. I never really liked it. Don't get me wrong... I love the tail lights just... nothing else. Wait no it's not that I don't like it it's more I love the rear of the four doors much much more.

Want something smoother since it's a smooth car. And it would look unique.

I haven't see anyone doing this or asking about it. So I thought I might leap in there.

I am guessing maybe getting a halfcut and implementing the rear on my two door? Does anyone know both rears really well? Does anything match up?

If there is an existing topic then give me some search pointers or something?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275920-four-door-rear-on-a-two-door-r33/
Share on other sites

EXPLAIN The look you want a bit more and maybe we can help.. i know a little about mix and matching gtst parts for gts4s so this would be backwards for me but if you could post a pic or something that would help

Never seen a picture of anyone doing it. But it's just the four door boot and rear tail light setup.

But imagine that as a two door? And without the wing. I honestly wish I had a picture.

Edited by daslingdale

you would need to cut the rear quarters out just after the windshield, weld 4 door ones in, modify the boot latches to fit a 4 door boot and modify tail light and rear garnish mounts to make it work. Rear bumper mounts would need to be modified also. I have a feeling that the rears on 4 doors are longer so you would need to cut and weld the boot lid to accommodate.

it is possible... but how deep are your pockets, and how much spare time you got?

Edited by SkyHi_33
you would need to cut the rear quarters out just after the windshield, weld 4 door ones in, modify the boot latches to fit a 4 door boot and modify tail light and rear garnish mounts to make it work. Rear bumper mounts would need to be modified also. I have a feeling that the rears on 4 doors are longer so you would need to cut and weld the boot lid to accommodate.

it is possible... but how deep are your pockets, and how much spare time you got?

Spot on! Sedan boot lids are slightly longer and narrower aswell. Rear quarters are more rounded than coupe ones. would require a lot of work, but im sure it could be done, depending on how deep your pockets are. Just not sure the finished product would look right.

i would cut up the quarters just enough that the lights fit, and fibreglass the gaps. The lights might even not need to be cut out they might be smaller.

for the middle "skyline" section, just cut some alluminium or similar to size and stick it on the back of your factory bootlid, that will give you the crease at the level of the lights.

put on a duckwing or more glass to flush the boot and/or make a little whate tail and your done

Interesting. I might shop around for a cheap four door boot lid and rear fascia. See what I can do with it and weigh up my options to which way I will have to go about doing it.

My money is spoken for right now. But I am expecting big bucks at tax time. :down:

not sure if your interested, pretty sure from memory i can get you a 33 4 door rear cut, with bar, no lights no garnish i dont think for about 250$ for you to toy with ...

shoot me a pm if needed, prob get lights cheap for you too.

only problem may be im in brisbane south depending on your location.

Edited by i.are.Joshi
Didn't know Do Luck made those. That will be my last resort if I cannot get this other thing to work out. The four door rear just looks much sharper.

cant pm, um not sure on shipping its through a mates parts shop.

not sure how heavy it is and how far its got to go, you could always work that out ? lol. i have no idea what a bare rear cut is worth.

dont think so to GTR cut, i just remember him having 2 4 door cuts he offered me

cant pm, um not sure on shipping its through a mates parts shop.

not sure how heavy it is and how far its got to go, you could always work that out ? lol. i have no idea what a bare rear cut is worth.

dont think so to GTR cut, i just remember him having 2 4 door cuts he offered me

Can I grab his email address or something? I might be able to get him to check out shipping for me. Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...