Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after doing some searching on this site I've noticed most info is for the older stageas. I just recently purchased a 2001 m35 rx300 the one with the VQ30DD. Anyway I have a lot of questions and was hoping some people here could fill me in.

I know that the chassis are shared with the G35 and Z33 does this mean that suspension parts are interchangeable? If so what parts? coilovers? LSDs? Also with the engine being a VQ30DD and not the 25DET what parts are swappable with the two? Anyone know of a company that makes a exaust for the VQ30DD?

For wheel sizes, anyone know what max size for a wheel is with rolling and a mild fender pull? I'm planning on trying to get my 18x9.5 +13 on the rear and 18x8.5 +25 on the front.

Anyway thanks in advance for the info or links to info

Jetwreck - See the sidebar, it's Okinawa JP.

:)

OkiM35, there is plenty of info on the M35 on the forums, but if they're anything like the C34, the 4WD models will have different suspension o the 2WD models.

I can't really help too much since I own a C34, but the M35 guys are compiling more information every day.

Jetwreck - See the sidebar, it's Okinawa JP.

I can't really help too much since I own a C34, but the M35 guys are compiling more information every day.

We won't be seeing the VQ30DD over here.

It does not meet power/weight requirements (191kw/1650kg=116.5kw) and I don't believe that any workshop has tried to get compliance for that engine in an M35.

Even if it was eligible, it was not a common engine in the NM35 and was not available in the later PM35.

Most buyers of the NM35 went for the VQ25DD if they wanted economy or the VQ25det if they wanted power. The VQ30DD was the "tweener".

The PM35 only had the VQ25DD or the VQ35DE available

Well after doing some searching on this site I've noticed most info is for the older stageas. I just recently purchased a 2001 m35 rx300 the one with the VQ30DD. Anyway I have a lot of questions and was hoping some people here could fill me in.

I know that the chassis are shared with the G35 and Z33 does this mean that suspension parts are interchangeable? If so what parts? coilovers? LSDs? Also with the engine being a VQ30DD and not the 25DET what parts are swappable with the two? Anyone know of a company that makes a exaust for the VQ30DD?

For wheel sizes, anyone know what max size for a wheel is with rolling and a mild fender pull? I'm planning on trying to get my 18x9.5 +13 on the rear and 18x8.5 +25 on the front.

Anyway thanks in advance for the info or links to info

Suspension for M35 is different between AWD and RWD as Ben said.

There is Nismo S-tune available for RWD M35's. I think that this would be your safest (and best value) bet.

As for parts, body/interior etc are the same as and NM35's and PM35's (with the AXIS/ARX body kits being the exception - unless you put the plastic wheel arches on as well)

Engine/exhaust stuff? Try looking for Y34 Gloria aftermarket parts.

There will be parts that are interchangeable between the VQ30DD and VQ25DET, but don't count on any VQ25DET performance parts fitting.

You may have some luck with VQ25DD stuff or maybe VQ35DE but since the fuel delivery is different (Direct injection vs Electronic injection) is may be difficult.

Those wheels will fit you RWD Stagea beautifully (Nice dish!).

Hope that helps :blink:

We won't be seeing the VQ30DD over here.

It does not meet power/weight requirements (191kw/1650kg=116.5kw) and I don't believe that any workshop has tried to get compliance for that engine in an M35.

Even if it was eligible, it was not a common engine in the NM35 and was not available in the later PM35.

Most buyers of the NM35 went for the VQ25DD if they wanted economy or the VQ25det if they wanted power. The VQ30DD was the "tweener".

The PM35 only had the VQ25DD or the VQ35DE available

Suspension for M35 is different between AWD and RWD as Ben said.

There is Nismo S-tune available for RWD M35's. I think that this would be your safest (and best value) bet.

As for parts, body/interior etc are the same as and NM35's and PM35's (with the AXIS/ARX body kits being the exception - unless you put the plastic wheel arches on as well)

Engine/exhaust stuff? Try looking for Y34 Gloria aftermarket parts.

There will be parts that are interchangeable between the VQ30DD and VQ25DET, but don't count on any VQ25DET performance parts fitting.

You may have some luck with VQ25DD stuff or maybe VQ35DE but since the fuel delivery is different (Direct injection vs Electronic injection) is may be difficult.

Those wheels will fit you RWD Stagea beautifully (Nice dish!).

Hope that helps :)

Yea that actually helps a lot. I'll definitely check out the Gloria stuff. I think the first thing I'm going to buy is some suspension. The Nismo S-tune stuff looks pretty decent, but I think I'm going to wanna go lower than they go. Probably going to end up going with the Teins, due to the fact that I liked how they were on my silvia

Yea that actually helps a lot. I'll definitely check out the Gloria stuff. I think the first thing I'm going to buy is some suspension. The Nismo S-tune stuff looks pretty decent, but I think I'm going to wanna go lower than they go. Probably going to end up going with the Teins, due to the fact that I liked how they were on my silvia

If you have a factory aero kit fitted the s-tune is about as low as most people would want to go, unless you want to loose the front bar :)

If you have the standard kit tho you could go lower :rofl:

If you have a factory aero kit fitted the s-tune is about as low as most people would want to go, unless you want to loose the front bar :)

If you have the standard kit tho you could go lower :rofl:

Yea I noticed you said you had them on yours, do you have a picture with them on your car? Also what what are your wheel and tire specs?

Yea I noticed you said you had them on yours, do you have a picture with them on your car? Also what what are your wheel and tire specs?

There are a few pics in my Garage (top right hand corner), just search for my user name.

Wheel & Tyres are the stock 17's for the moment, upgrading to 19" at some point, performance side of things comes first, then it's handling, cosmetics.

Yea that doesn't look bad at all.

Anyway I was looking on the Tein site and noticed that the code for my car is not M35 like I thought, but it is HM35. Guess the 'H' differentiates the Rx300 from the rest. It isn't on the price list either

http://www.tein.co.jp/search/search1.cgi?a...SAN〈=en

I can see why the awd and rwd models would differ, but I wouldn't think that because the engine was different the suspension would be different as well. Anyone have any info on this? I guess I could just always have my wife ask someone, but half the time she doesn't even understand what I saying if I am talking about cars

Hey Bis-e Bee the forum wont let me Pm you back until I have more than 10 posts. Anyway I'll keep an eye out for you, but to be honest there aren't too many M35s in wrecking yard in Okinawa. We usually get the old crap that people in the mainland don't want anymore. If you can get on yahoo auctions that is probably your best bet. I can check some sites like upgarage and goo parts for you though.

Hey Bis-e Bee the forum wont let me Pm you back until I have more than 10 posts. Anyway I'll keep an eye out for you, but to be honest there aren't too many M35s in wrecking yard in Okinawa. We usually get the old crap that people in the mainland don't want anymore. If you can get on yahoo auctions that is probably your best bet. I can check some sites like upgarage and goo parts for you though.

Thanks Chris :)

The more people I have on the look out the more likely I am to find out.

Anything you could do from that end would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...