Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

turns out my car is now a write off, and i have the option of buying the wreck back.

just gathering immediate interest, see if its worth buying the wreck.

1997 BLACK S1 RS260

73,000kms

front end damage

RB26DETT

twin plate Exedy clutch

Damaged crank pulley

might be interested in selling the wreck as is,

or parting out whole car.

4228_81499416187_663326187_1985632_3140634_n.jpg

cheers, Nigel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276225-eoi-wrecking-260rs-adelaide/
Share on other sites

what front suspension you running nigel?and also ill shotgun the handbrake and possibly console...

its NISMO S-Tune coils, with the factory optioned lowered springs.

idealy, i would like to sell the whole wreck for some fast cash, but i'll see what price i am offered

Edited by BIT SUS
how much were you looking at for the whole wreck out of interest?

and how much you want for the spoiler?

I find out later in the week how much the wreck is, and will post up.

I won't be listing individual part prices up until such time as I have made a decision on buying the wreck or not.

Until then, feel free to post up offers on the main things like engine, gearbox, brakes, suspension, etc.

I FKN hate lancer drivers!

the tears are still running :P

I hate commo drivers :)

Interested in brakes and possibly front and rear seats.

Let us know what the outcome is.

I find out later in the week how much the wreck is, and will post up.

I won't be listing individual part prices up until such time as I have made a decision on buying the wreck or not.

Until then, feel free to post up offers on the main things like engine, gearbox, brakes, suspension, etc.

Pm sent about gearbox, flywheel, clutch, pedal box, etc ... most bits for a manual conversion. :thumbsup:

Intersested in the whole car

Does it still roll or partly drive to get it on and off a truck to Brisbane?

The car rolls and steers, but engine cannot be started as there is no radiator, intercooler or belts on the engine. The crash shop dismantled the front end to assess the damage.

For all those people who have PM'd me about the price of the wreck, I will not reply, as I will be posting the price of the complete wreck up here, and it will then be first in best dressed from that point on.

I cannot keep track of 15+ PMs (so far) about the wreck, and if i purchase the wreck, I want it gone ASAP, as I want to replace the vehicle as soon as possible.

Sorry if this upsets some people, but as you can understand, Im trying to recover my uninsured losses as best as I can.

Nigel

hey there mate,

just abit of advice from my experiance with my r33 gtr

its not worth buying the wreck back as in the end you dont end up making $$ as the insurance company always wants top $$ for the wreck plus you will get thousands of time wasters saying they want the car but as we all know there are too many dreamers who dont want to pay what its worth

for some one to buy this and put it back on the road will take alot of time and money

save the headache and give it to the insurance company, i wished i done so

hey there mate,

just abit of advice from my experiance with my r33 gtr

its not worth buying the wreck back as in the end you dont end up making $ as the insurance company always wants top $ for the wreck plus you will get thousands of time wasters saying they want the car but as we all know there are too many dreamers who dont want to pay what its worth

for some one to buy this and put it back on the road will take alot of time and money

save the headache and give it to the insurance company, i wished i done so

yeh, ive figured as much, but most people would want this car for parts for say a manual conversion, not for a repair.

exactly my point,

you would sell the manual bits and maybe the motor (which will be hard as people want warranty) so you will end up with parts everywhere as people will get you to pull it appart but never collect the parts

things to take into consideration are

you need room and time to store and dismantle the car,

you will need to cover all your cost and then make a profit to make it worth while for you, this takes alot of time trust me

you will have heappps of tyre kickers rocking up to your house for parts but want it for next to nothing

alright.

enough BS:

I have been offered the car back at what i think is an acceptable price.

Throw me some offers via PM for the whole wreck, and i'll see i'd make a small profit by buying it back.

Highest offer wins obviously, as im already at a loss of 6k or more (see stupid Lancer drivers comment earlier)

Nigel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...