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new s15 genuine OEM nissan "lightning bolt" bonnet badge

Price: $50

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zex nitros dry kit

Was cleaning out my garage and found this doozy sitting there literally collecting dust.

It's a full kit - you get everything you see and it's ready to be installed, was installed but never used - you can verify that by opening/smelling the bottle.

Was set up on my old car when I had it, it's got corrugated sheathing to cover all the braided lines, I hid the controller under the windscreen wiper cover and so there is an extra section of braided line (with fittings) customed up for me by Earl's so that it could reach the intake without running the risk of the line kinking. Stealth setup for hektikness

I'll give you some cash back if you take me for a ride and show me what I missed out on

Price: $700 (i paid $1441.81 invoice picture attached)

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r33gts25t rear sway bar, 18mm, comes with endlinks, mounts, brackets, bushes

Price: FREEEEEEEEE if you buy with something, else $40 on it own

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Narva foglights, model "Compac 80"

Price: FREEEEEEEEE if you buy with something, else $40 on it own (new is $120)

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R33 gts25t series 2 diff with ABS that is shimmed/tightened, ratio is 4.1, comes with half shafts and driveshafts, bolt in install!

It was damn hard to find a series 2 diff *with ABS* so this thing is quite rare, plus this one has been shimmed up. You need this diff if your car has ABS and want a decent diff ratio, everything else I've seen was non-ABS which can't be used on a car with ABS. Driveshafts are thicker and are in good condition, ready to go.

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GUARANTEED PERFECT CONDITION!!!

GUARANTEED PERFECT CONDITION!!!

GUARANTEED PERFECT CONDITION!!!

s14/s13 OS Giken STREET twin plate clutch kit model "STR2CD", includes lightweight flywheel, throw out bearing and carrier and new-when-installed OEM nissan flywheel bolts.

I've used this very minimally, properly bedded in and then only done a handful of KM's. This is a very streetable twin plate clutch kit, the clutch pedal feel is light, slightly more than factory but nowhere near any of the big singles or regular twin plates. OS Giken achieved this by altering the the spring design and using a special new plate. So you have a clutch kit capable of holding 550hp in circuit, drag and drift, all whilst being street-friendly and left leg friendly.

Before I had this kit installed I measured the width of the clutch plates and have now measured the clutch plate after being used. Here are the specs:

New thickness = 4mm

Used thickness = 4mm

I have attached pictures of these measurements so that you can verify for yourself and see I've barely driven on this clutch :P

PRICE: $1600 as new (brand new is $2700), includes bearing + carrier + OEM nissan flywheel bolts to suit.

GUARANTEED PERFECT CONDITION!!!

GUARANTEED PERFECT CONDITION!!!

GUARANTEED PERFECT CONDITION!!!

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i'm in sydney/homebush and pickup anytime is not a problem, i can have it delivered anywhere at cost price without a problem too

CLICK HERE for pics pics pics:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=392899

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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