Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So there are conflicting recommendations on the forum, some say mid teens for offset is best, others say thirties is best....mmmmm

Rianto, what does the offset do exactly? What is it?

Thanks again!

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

it's the distance from the centre of the rims' width to the face hub.

the lesser the offset do the more the wheel will stick out of the guards...

I'm just speaking from legality point of view, unless you want to be defected for having an open wheeler car on the road without wheel guards (due to extreme low offset), or you will need to roll your guards a lot to clear the rims and wheels.

My rear has offset +25 and in my opinion it is very close to the edge of the guard already, considering it's 9.5" wide at the back (1.5" wider than std 8")

which means compared to standard +30 offset the new rims would easily stick outwards 5mm due to offset + another 19mm due to width difference = 24mm or almost an inch... still can do lower, perhaps +20 but that means after every drive over a pot hole or so you will need to clean all your rear quarter guards 'cos you'll get lots of mud splash up your car's arse....

Great, thank you for that once again.

I certainly don't want the wheels to stick out of the guards, it does not suit this car, plus it's my daily drive and I do not want to attract the attention of the police.

So I think a more conservative offset of mid 20's to 30 should suit. I'm looking at getting 10" wide rims for the back and 9" for the front. I want to go more for the luxury look rather than the racey look. Although I would like it to look a little aggresive at the back.

I love this forum, you can find so much information. The donation that I gave the forum has repaid itself back so many times over!!!

millos,

best STANDARD offset imo is 9.5" wide +22 front / 10.5" wide +22 rear. the rims will be FLUSH, not stick out. I have seen alot of exmaples of people who put rims on this car and the offset is all wrong. The same issue with 350Z. These cars have massive guards... FILL THEM! anything higher than a +22 will look shit. Definatley dont go to mid 30's. You will be kicking yourself if you do.

I have done EXTENSIVE research into the offset of rim sizes and what works and what doesnt on V35s. I researched for about 4 months before i decided on buying my rims. I have looked at what alot of other people have done.

anything under a +22 (e.g. in my case +8 front / +18 rear) is getting much more aggressive and you need to run alot of negative camber.

you can get a nice flush look without the bad effects of negative camber with the offset i have recommended. throw a 265 tyre on the front and a 285 tyre on the rear and then you will have a VERY nice looking setup. but REMEMBER you need a 9.5" wide front and 10.5" wide rear, otherwise the offset i just mentioned will be useless. And that goes for everyone else here who has recommended you an offset.

WITHOUT KNOWING THE WIDTH OF THE RIM, TRYING TO DETERMINE THE OFFSET IS USELESS.

Hey Eldubb,

I'm looking at exactly the same issue too. So did you buy the 19" at 245/35f and 275/35r?

Also for the guys that know, the offsets that are supposed to best suit the V35 are in the teens, i.e. +15.

The guys at the tyre shop were offering me +30's offset, what is the difference? How will it affect the ride?

In terms of rim, they have Work wheels, which are beautiful, but a little pricey of course.

They also have Taiwanese made wheels, which look great, but a lot heavier and cheaper, what do you guys think?

+15 offset? how wide is the rim? maybe a bit to aggressive for what your after. especially if it is in the region of 9-9.5/10-10.5 which is the width you should be looking at.

+30 offset? again how wide is the rim?

just keep in mind the wider the rims, the more it will stick out of the guards with the same offset, and you need to consider whether the wide rims will scrub the inner suspension component too. just use the rim size calculator here to check the combination that you want whether you will have any issues, and check your existing rims now and see how much clearance you got inwards towards suspension and outwards up to the guard.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

best to keep the front rims less wider than the rear since the wider the front rims, it might scrape the guard when turning.

but if you don't lower the car it shouldn't be too much issue, otherwise you may shave the tyre edges, potentially making the tyre weaker,

and your guard could be dented from the scrubbing. It happened on my old R33 even on 17x8" at the front, cos it was lowered 1" at the front.

happened during hard sweeping corner on the race track, shaved the tyre and dented the guard lip at the point of tyre contact...

the rear guard is wider so it can accommodate wider wheels at the back, so no worries.

PS: from previous posts... I will keep this link handy too to calculate tyre size http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Armed with these 2 links / calculators, it will answer all your questions...

on the rear with my setup, i rolled the rear guards. $50 a side, and it didnt crack the paint. there is no scrubbing whatsoever. when there is passengers in the rear, you should see the clearance. less than 1-2mm from the guard to the rim!

on the front there is again no scrubbing at all. V35s can take a huge different assortment of rims. But it is the tyre choice which will also mean will it scrub? or not?

eg. if i went with a 35 profile instead of a 30 profile on my rims, then yes there would be major clearance and scrubbing issues.

Alright guys, based on that information and other information reviewed from earlier posts in the forum, I could easily fit the +22 offsets with 9.5" and 10.5" respectively without having any issues on the Coupe.

So like Mark said, first thing is first, look for the width of rims first. But will definitely be in the region of 9-9.5" front and 10-10.5" rear.

No lower than around +22 offset and not higher than +30, depending on what they can offer me.

Looking at the moment for second hand Jap wheels, brand new are bloody expensive, Work SC1 or SC2. Or if not, just go to the tyre place and pick up a set of non-Japanese heavy wheels, but look nice, for now!!!

Alright guys, based on that information and other information reviewed from earlier posts in the forum, I could easily fit the +22 offsets with 9.5" and 10.5" respectively without having any issues on the Coupe.

So like Mark said, first thing is first, look for the width of rims first. But will definitely be in the region of 9-9.5" front and 10-10.5" rear.

No lower than around +22 offset and not higher than +30, depending on what they can offer me.

Looking at the moment for second hand Jap wheels, brand new are bloody expensive, Work SC1 or SC2. Or if not, just go to the tyre place and pick up a set of non-Japanese heavy wheels, but look nice, for now!!!

You will be hard pressed finding anything with a decent width and offset from a local tyre place.

PM me with your budget (wheels only), whether ur chasing 18s or 19s and type of wheel. I will have a look around for you...there are plenty of good second hand sets around if you know where to look.

Is that right?

Is that in all states or only in your state. Where are you by the way Eldubb??

If that is the case then going for 9" & 10" might be better.....although you could still get away with it!!!

its 2" diameter... but the track is illegal because its too wide.. so when a cop sees 19" they will be happy.

i have been pulled over in defect stations and RBT all the time here in sydney, and all the cops do is say to me "wow mate nice car, love the rims" and let me go!

-mark

If you're In QLD, read this:

http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...r_vehicles2.pdf

These laws vary from state to state. My understanding from the above is as long as:

1. Wheels do not protrude from outer guard

2. Do not foul any suspension parts

3. Overall diameter does not exceed 15mm from factory specs

You should be fine.

If you're In QLD, read this:

http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...r_vehicles2.pdf

These laws vary from state to state. My understanding from the above is as long as:

1. Wheels do not protrude from outer guard

2. Do not foul any suspension parts

3. Overall diameter does not exceed 15mm from factory specs

You should be fine.

It Seems a lot of discuss around.

OK Here is what I got:

Now I am with 18 NISMO LMGT 4 Black for coupe

F: 18x8.5 +25 with 245/40/R18

R: 18x9.5 +30 with 275/40/R18

Lowered with BC Racing coilover around 1/2" all around.

No issue at all.

So my idear is:

If you want to lower, do not take offset lower than 20 for 9"+ wheels unless want to roller guard.

For 9.5" and 10.5" wheels, +22 may be the lowest offset can got without roller guard.

My 30 and 25 offset fit the guard very well after lower.

Here is some pic before lower. Not bad for such high offset.

post-a113523-.jpg

post-a113524-.jpg

post-a234163-20080119-4768648ccac0f20d.jpg

post-a234162-20080119-1345c98325425a52.jpg

post-31669-1247447906_thumb.jpg

post-31669-1247447969_thumb.jpg

Edited by Frank350GT
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...