Jump to content
SAU Community

2000 Rs4s Stagea Hicas Problem, Self Diagnosis Code 13 - Motor Output


Griff0
 Share

Recommended Posts

I posted this under the Mods and Maintenance / General Maintenance section but haven't had any responses. Thought I'd put it here and see if there's a better response.

Thanks for you help.

I was driving my Stag around the other day when the HICAS light came on. Nothing else was noted just the HICAS light. After investigation I conducted the HICAS self diagnosis procedure. I assume it has the same HICAS as R34 Skyline as the HICAS flashing code seemed to be in accordance with the R34 Workshop manual.

It came up with code 13 - and according to the R34 manual it says it's a motor output fault and to conduct inspection 3. Does anyone know what inspection 3 is? and are there common faults I should be looking for?

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your light is telling you to get rid of the hicas. Actually I didn't know the RS4S had Hicas - I thought only the 260Rs had it. If you do have hicas maybe you could check to see if the motor is working ( either by jacking up the car and observing or checking it with a multimeter).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi, i ve just bought a 2001 arx... brilliant machine.... but i was wondering... the hicas thing must have bugger all impact on the handling?

also anyone from auckland -- i would really appreciate if you could shoot me a txt... got some really basic questions

mark 027 202 1996

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kiwi,

Can you detail a little more what procedure I could go through to check it by jacking it up and also with the multimeter?

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • There isn't that many cars yet that are using electric coolant pumps, but they are slowly becoming more common, especially in the euro brands.  back in 2009, they were quite rare, pretty much all were either timing chain or accessory belt driven. That said, the VQ37VHR isn't an uncommon engine, so any decent mechanic should be able to replace the water pump.  I don't live in NSW, so can't make any suggestions.
    • I do not think that the return pipe could be the cause of your particular troubles, unless perchance it is leaking in a lot of unfiltered and unmetered air (assuming your ECU is still using AFMs). And then it could be very bad, but it shouldn't prevent you making boost. Blow then engine up from running lean? Sure. But it would make boost. You really needed to disconnect this thing from the turbo inlets and close those inlet ports off a year ago, and you should do it now.
    • Pressure Ratio = 2. ie, 1 bar of boost (assuming 1 bat absolute pressure at the compressor inlet). This is relevant because compressor maps do not have "boost" up the y-axis. They have pressure ratio.
    • Revisiting this thread again x2... 1 year later. This car has been an ongoing project between life. But, I never removed the re-circ pipe. I know, shame on me. But since then, i took it to get tuned and only making about 280hp (lame) and i'm chasing a boost issue where the car wont boost past 7-8psi. Mac valve installed. Haltech Platinum pro with the map sensor.  This is the first time i've tackled the turbo side of things, but i have that side somewhat taken apart to chase the waste gate vacuum lines. And noticed this stupid pipe again. I'm peicing together the puzzle and @GTSBoy mentioned that it was a big vaccuum chamber and said a bunch of car math stuff that I couldn't quite follow the car math (im trying). You guys think this would be the culprit? between rotting vacuum hoses?  i'm making a DIY boost leak tester this weekend. 
×
×
  • Create New...