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'$35 air powered 1/2" ratchet '...that sounds like something i see on the F1l!! I assume you need a source of compressed air to use this tool? I know what you mean about the oil change, considerably more effort than the Primera i used to have. Thanks for the advice...i'm determined to give it a go again at a later date. Will have to wait for a nice weekend.

  • 1 month later...

Top of first intake stage with plenum cover only removed (not much buildup, just varnishing):

DSC01882.jpg

I changed the upper plenum to a Kinetix one on my 80,000km VQ35 and mine looked nothing like this - it was silver and clean - not black and oily. I couldn't believe it looked like new, but yours s digusting - I wonder how it got like that?

I changed the upper plenum to a Kinetix one on my 80,000km VQ35 and mine looked nothing like this - it was silver and clean - not black and oily. I couldn't believe it looked like new, but yours s digusting - I wonder how it got like that?

You don't have a direct injection engine

Hey nice cleaning job man!

I think mine still wins on the overall 'crud factor' yours still had silver areas left before cleaning :laugh:

And Nightcrawler, you have a VQ35DE. You will not have this problem unless your engine number has 'DD' at the end.

Ah I had no idea they were so different. Is direct injection better than the VQ35 system? I know nothing about it. Is there a website I can learn from?

Not a whole lot of info out there. Which is why I started this thread.

The direct injection system is different in that it injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. Where as on your car the fuel is injected into the intake runners where it mixes with air before entering the combustion chamber.

The idea is that direct injection presents the 'spray' of fuel in a way that allows for more complete combustion. There is more control of how the fuel is injected in other words, so direct injected motors tend to be more fuel efficient and can potentially produce mor power than inderect injection motors.

You pay for this however as with indirect injection, the fuel vapour is present in the intake manifold and it 'cleans' the walls of the intake manifold while the engine runs. However as direct injected motors have no fuel vapour outside of the combustion chamber, the intake manifold ends up getting dirtier and dirtier as exhaust fumes and oil build up on the walls from the EGR valve and cam cover breather.

Most modern petrol engines these days are going Direct injection but they are coming up with ways to avoid the intake buildup problems. I am not sure why Nissan made Direct injected motors for a few years then stopped. I can only assume that it was cost driven as the hardware required to build a direct injected motor is not cheap and perhaps the maths wasn't working out for them.

Thanks for the info. Seems completely bizarre that they did not make the realtively higher performance VQ35 dd then. It also explains how the VQ30 makes only a small amount less power than the VQ35, which has always surprised me.

Thanks for the info. Seems completely bizarre that they did not make the realtively higher performance VQ35 dd then. It also explains how the VQ30 makes only a small amount less power than the VQ35, which has always surprised me.

Yeah it is strange.

Expecially when you compare the power hike between the VQ30DE and the VQ30DD. The difference being the direct injection system.

VQ30DE: 230Hp, 294Nm

VQ30DD: 255Hp, 324Nm

You never know what the reasoning is behind engine changes made by auto makers. There are so many factors at play. Like why did they drop the VQ30DD and continue to supply the VQ25DD in 2003?

Hey nice cleaning job man!

yep :thumbsup: did it twice for 40.000 km and then disconnect EGR valve. Cut off the pipe which comes from left exhaust to the intake through EGR, putted 10 Ohms resistor into blue EGR's connector. That's it, no errors and intake stays clean and shiny.

888.jpg

321.jpg

555-1.jpg

on the last photo there is a piece of cooper pipe, just bypass coolant that warmed throttle body up.

Edited by Nicko_2010

Hey that resistor was a smart fix. I didn't think of that.

Which contacts did you bridge with the resistor? Are there only 2 pins in that plug? I have a constant error code for "EGR valve no vacuum".

Would be so keen to get rid of that!

Edited by chad bob

Hey that resistor was a smart fix. I didn't think of that.

Which contacts did you bridge with the resistor? Are there only 2 pins in that plug? I have a constant error code for "EGR valve no vacuum".

Would be so keen to get rid of that!

yes, there are 2 pins so you can use 10 Ohms or 20. have you got 0400 error? also you will have to put gasket (no holes, from stainless steel or whatever) between the valve and intake in order to block shit coming in.

yes, there are 2 pins so you can use 10 Ohms or 20. have you got 0400 error? also you will have to put gasket (no holes, from stainless steel or whatever) between the valve and intake in order to block shit coming in.

Cool.

Yes as above I have blocked the valve by using an old exhaust gasket so nothing flows through but I'm getting 0400 error constantly.

Cheers mate. I will sort out a resistor as well and report back.

Okay, I just had a look at the plug on my EGR valve and it has 6 pins. Not 2.

Are you sure yours only has 2 pins in total Nico? Or did you mean that you only bridged two of the pins.

Okay, I just had a look at the plug on my EGR valve and it has 6 pins. Not 2.

Are you sure yours only has 2 pins in total Nico? Or did you mean that you only bridged two of the pins.

oops, there should be another connector, grey one that comes from temp sensor. It has 2 pins. 0400 pops up cos of temperature failure.

Btw I havn't seen egr valve on Stageas.

3 sedans in Adelaide already done that so it has been tested for a while and no errors :cheers:

Edited by Nicko_2010

oops, there should be another connector, grey one that comes from temp sensor. It has 2 pins. 0400 pops up cos of temperature failure.

Btw I havn't seen egr valve on Stageas.

3 sedans in Adelaide already done that so it has been tested for a while and no errors :cheers:

OOOh kay!

Was rather confused for a bit.

Stageas and Skylines are identical in the drive line so there should be absolutely no difference between a 300RX motor and a 300GT motor.

My EGR valve plug is grey and the 2 pin one next to it is blue though. Oposites game? :wacko:

My EGR valve plug is grey and the 2 pin one next to it is blue though. Oposites game? :wacko:

hmm, leave grey egr's connector connected as ussual, unplug blue temp connector and put resistor in between 2 pins. Reset errors.

Ive got green egr's connector and grey 2 pins temp connector. Anyway there are 3 connectors behind the intake, egr, temp sensor and throttle body and only one has 2 pins :yes:

555-1.jpg

Edited by Nicko_2010
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys my v35 250gt is going in for an 80k service soon I purchased a can of three bond upper engine cleaner which is the same as the subi stuff you guys are using. I hope to notice an improvement.

The three bond stuff I'm using is available from most auto stores I got mine from repco part number 6601240j from memory.

  • 5 months later...

Hey guys, need some help. I removed the top and middle plenum to clean, and reinstalled everything back.

Used some rags to cover the ports on the bottom plenum while I was doing this.

First attempt at cranking it hesitated (batt volt 12.8). On second attempt it cranked, but no ignition. Right now

the engine turns over but it doesn't start. Not sure what's going on. Checked plugs, while not in the greatest

condition they were sparking before, and they were wet.

It turns over smoothly but no putt putts of weak ignition.

Ideas?

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