Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for sale pickup Qld ipswich 0400 328786

out of hr30 coupe L20et engine head off otherwise complete, intake/exhaust manifolds, stock turbo with lines/dump, dizzy, ecu, loom, afm 5 spd gearbox, flywheel.

fitting an fj so dont need any of it so if i forgot 2 list something its more than likely there...

$600

jon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277961-l20et-enginemanagmentbox/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

gday, yeah i still have it all wasnt sure if i wanted 2 seperate the dizzy drive from the motor at the time but yes u can have it because im keeping the h4 oil pump off it...

ive got the coupe stored at a mates house so will get over there this week and remove loom/ecu/afm

jon.

pm sent a day or so ago...

hey andy you'll need that little controller that sits in the boot as well probably (sits up under the parcel shelf) - it controls fuel pump signal and boost signal to tell the pump all that important stuff..

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...