Jump to content
SAU Community

4 Door R33 Skyline owners look here

akira

By akira,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

BundyBear Rising Star

BundyBear

Posted
Posted

Resurrecting this thread again as ive started a S1 build. So far ive found:-

Rear speaker mounts (plasic bits) are different. Fronts are the same

Door mirrors are different...the outer bit that moves when folding apears the same but the part that bolts to the door is different.

Front and read screens are different

Rear bar and pods are different

Areals the same but the bracket on the botton is about 2mm different length

Boot plastics. Sides and rear are different. As is the brackets o the tail lights that mount them..I dont have a floor to tell yet. Battery covers the same but

Parcel shelt is about an inch amd a half deeper

Rear seats are different but can be made fit..I replaced the panel behind the seat with a coupe one (had to straighten it somewhat but it gave me the height of the hooks the back of the rear seat locks into). Then drill out the spotwelds of the 2 outer hooks and rerivet to the new height...coupe back seats are a bit narower to so youll have a 10mm gap down each side.

S2 coupe headlights drop straight into the S1 sedan (weird cause they dont fit properly in a S2 sedan)

Coupe locks can be used all round but the boot lock needs to be striped down to just the barrel

Carpet. The only difference is the location of the strips on the side rhat hook on and the coupe has the 2 holes where the front seatbelts attach to the J shaped bar thingy

Rear wipers are interchangeable to

Thats all I can think of for now....

PS my dash harness was hacked up so ive put a coupe one in...tail lights, blinkers, interior light(triggered by back doors), rear windows and areal etc worked. But central locking needed wiring in.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
BundyBear Rising Star

BundyBear

Posted
Posted

anyone know if the rear seats are the same as 2dr?

No coupe seats are about 15mm smaller each side and the mounts for the top half are different (the are easy to modify but)

Panel behind back weat is differet to, flatter (can be swaped for above with work)

Exhaust will fit but a bit shorter

Bracket on the bottom of areal is different

Most boot trims are different. Gap between lights is smaller

Parcel sheld if about 25mm deeper

Rear speaker pods are different but fronts are the same

Only difference in floor carpet is tye clip/chanels down the sides and the coupe has 2 holes for the bottom of the seatbelts

S2 coupe headlights droped straight in my s1 sedan

S2 coupe front panels went on my s1 sedan no dramas. Even used the s1 reo and got everything to line up

Rear cradles are definitely the same

Rear pods are longer on the sedan

Coupe wings (drift,normal and M spec) wings wont fit

Front and rear windscreens are very different

Dash and centre console are the same

Front seats are interchangable BUT sedan seats dont flip foreward in one hit like coups do...and sedans have adjustable lumbar support instead of adjustable wings

Rear bars are different (longer)

Dash harness is different (missing a few wires for the rear doors). I put a s1.5 dash and front harness in my s1 sedan. Can be modified to work if your desperate.

Front passengers window switch is swapable as is the handle it mounts on

Pretty sure the roof lining is different (windscreen shape) but I cant confirm as I havnt swaped em

Roof wings are different

Diffs are the same between short and long nose..ie a short nose coupe diff will fit a short nose sedan setup

That's all I can think of atm

  • Like 1
BundyBear Rising Star

BundyBear

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I have just bought a R33 sedan, that needs a few things, i'm wondering if anyone knows if the sedan and coupe share the same of the same items:

S2 Bonnet

Interior A piller trims

Front seats

Thanks!

S2 coupe bonnet will fit a s2 sedan but for a s1 sedan you wull have to change the grill and better to do the bar and headlughta or it just dont look right

A pillar trims are completly different (I might have some in a couple of weeks at doyalson nsw)

Front seats...short answer is yes but see above post

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
ZiAzon Apprentice

ZiAzon

Posted
Posted

Regarding the mirrors, if you need to replace the mirrors on your sedan, make sure you keep the base plate (the part that bolts to the door). The rest of the mirror is interchangeable.

So when replacing, you will need to unscrew everything and butcher the wiring to remove and replace the base plate. Use crimp connectors unless you dodgy like me and you individually twist/wrap and bind the wiring.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
-S- Community Regular

-S-

Posted
Posted

Regarding the mirrors, if you need to replace the mirrors on your sedan, make sure you keep the base plate (the part that bolts to the door). The rest of the mirror is interchangeable.

So when replacing, you will need to unscrew everything and butcher the wiring to remove and replace the base plate. Use crimp connectors unless you dodgy like me and you individually twist/wrap and bind the wiring.

U mean using coupe mirrors on a sedan?
BundyBear Rising Star

BundyBear

Posted
Posted

U mean using coupe mirrors on a sedan?

the outside bit yea..you have to use the triangular part that bolts to the sail from a sedan but the guts (motor glass etc) and the outside shell are the same..i had trpuble gettimg sedan mirrors that fold in and out. Just pull em apart and swap the triangular bit and your good to go
BundyBear Rising Star

BundyBear

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ganadors dont sit right on a coupe anyway...my mates got em and personally i think the fitments crap. Hangs over the window opening by 15mm or so..maybe with some work theyd fit right..but depends hownkeen you are :)

Edited by BundyBear
  • 1 month later...
Tangles01 Enthusiast

Tangles01

Posted
Posted

So I've done some looking this seems to be the best thread for my question and I can't se a direct response anywhere either. I have a S1 334 door and want to fit a cage, will the cages for a 2 door fit, it seems form what is said here that they will, but cusco used to make a 33 4 cage, now discontinued. I'd like the back seats to be accessible, even if impractical. Anyone got some info or tech on this, or if ceffy or other model cages fit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...