Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, car is nearly done and need some help with where to position my Stack lap timer receiver.

We were thinking of putting it in here:

post-8405-1247031111_thumb.jpg

Not sure if this will be too low for the beacon?

Also, deciding which side to put the receiver is tough. From what I know for all Vic tracks, bar Sandown, it should be on the passenger side, is that right?

I haven't seen anyone else here using the STACK timer (except maybe Russ??), but any experience would be helpful.

For reference, this is the kit:

post-8405-1247031732_thumb.png

Thanks,

Dane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278268-beaconslap-timers/
Share on other sites

yeah dude, definitely don't put it anywhere outside the car. on the front bar is insane! and definitely too low. it will get nailed sooner or later. attach to roll cage with zip ties or tape if lazy. it also means you can switch sides when you need to. point it out the rear quarter windows. window glass even tinted is no problem.

I'm with Gary,,,put it anywhere thats higher than the pit wall by about 10cm's. Inside/outside it doesn't really matter,,just make sure both units can see each other as one passes the other. Waterproofing is also a problem,,,I take glad-wrap everywhere.

Neil.

i know the stuff. A few GTI-Rs I imported had it on the quarter windows from japan.

if it's a problem I wouldn't change the mounting. Just get a scalpel and cut a small circle out of the 'tint'. do it the same on each side for symmetry lol and so you can swap sides as needed. it will look neat, just find something circular to trace around like a 20c coin etc. or if no confident drop into a tint place and they will do it easy, cost maybe $10. and wont look bad at all.

Yeah I think that will be the best way to do it. I'd like to keep the stuff until I change out the glass for some lexan, so symmetry it is :laugh:

This is the stuff here. It's pretty cool, hard to see out of at nights but works a treat during the day.

post-8405-1247100047_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...