Jump to content
SAU Community

Will An Aftermarket Fuel Pump Give Bottom End Torque?

Brezza

By Brezza,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i was just wondering i have a fully rebuilt forged motor with all the goodies! pistons, bearings, recon head, large head gaskets, baffle, oil restrictor.

also have 2860-5's with a full 3in exhaust off the turbos, pod filters.

running 13psi and getting 250rwkw

still have stock ecu, injectors and fuel pump

i was wondering if i replace the fuel pump, the car would maybe be more responsive at low rpm, off boost and spool up quicker?

i know an aftermarket ECU would allow for the tuner to adjust timing and fuel maps to minimise lag. but the question is whether a fuel pump would make a considerable difference with the stock ECU??

cheers,

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

A fuel pump supplies fuel.

Stock ECU, tuned ECU - Makes no difference

Unless you have a fueling issue - you will see no gain in performance.

Why are you running -5's and a build motor, without a ECU/injectors and every other supporting mod you need...

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

I would definitely get it tuned asap as a forged motor aint a cheap thing and you want the best out of it; the ECU will gain plenty of low end torque and overall power, the pump and supporting mods simply support your ending achievement.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
A fuel pump supplies fuel.

Stock ECU, tuned ECU - Makes no difference

Unless you have a fueling issue - you will see no gain in performance.

Why are you running -5's and a build motor, without a ECU/injectors and every other supporting mod you need...

Hey there is nothing wrong with that, the standard ECU/injectors are good for 280-290rwkw.

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A fuel pump supplies fuel.

Stock ECU, tuned ECU - Makes no difference

Unless you have a fueling issue - you will see no gain in performance.

Why are you running -5's and a build motor, without a ECU/injectors and every other supporting mod you need...

simplest answer i can give you is "because of the $$$"

takes a little time to save up some cash to get fuel pump, ecu and injectors after spending 9k on the motor and 3k on turbos incl. installation.

not trying to be sarcastic.

Brezza Proficient

Brezza

Posted
  • Author
Posted
-5's are good for 400rwkw+ :thumbsup:

If you only wanted 300rwkw, you'd use different turbos

plenty of people are using the -5's with under 400kw

picked them up for a great price brand new.

once i get the supporting fuel and ecu mods will probably be trying for over the 300rwkw mark

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yes i realise that... -5's/-9's are all $1100ea new if you shop around and know where to go. From memory i can get cheaper than that even...

But if you only want 300-340rwkw, then the -9/GT-SS is the way to go... but anyways enough threads with all that info in it these days

quiksta Community Regular

quiksta

Posted
Posted
Yes i realise that... -5's/-9's are all $1100ea new if you shop around and know where to go. From memory i can get cheaper than that even...

But if you only want 300-340rwkw, then the -9/GT-SS is the way to go... but anyways enough threads with all that info in it these days

Please PM details where i can find -5's or -7's for $1100 each?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...