Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wouldnt really recomend putting them in the kick panels, tweeters are great for raising the sound stage and lifting the whole sound up of the floor, to put them in the kick panel would sort of defeat that purpose. A piller is a very popular place to mount then or the door sail (the little pannel that covers the bolts for you rear view side mirror's). either of those are good locations. the sail is the best as it is one of the cheaper parts to replace. i myself have actually just wedged them between the window and the dashboard. sounds dodgy but no holes or anything cut into any panels and they look mint.

and untill i have money to make custom moulds on a pillers thats were there staying.

  • 2 weeks later...
wouldnt really recomend putting them in the kick panels, tweeters are great for raising the sound stage and lifting the whole sound up of the floor, to put them in the kick panel would sort of defeat that purpose. A piller is a very popular place to mount then or the door sail (the little pannel that covers the bolts for you rear view side mirror's). either of those are good locations. the sail is the best as it is one of the cheaper parts to replace. i myself have actually just wedged them between the window and the dashboard.

Problem is the the speakers have not been listed and wether the midwoofers have been mounted in stock locations. Being a West Austrailan SQ judge ive heard many different set up's. Using the kick panels can be a great way to achieving depth in a system it all depends on what speakers are being used. The stage height normally wont be as high but with good equlisation and speaker directions it can be fixed. What i would do is allow the tweeters to be moved around while wired up and try blue tacking them in a range of places to get the best results. You'll most likely find the tweeters will probably perform there best in the far back corners of the dash/a pillars aiming at the other sides head rest. Sail panel while being cheap and easy may not get the depth your chasing... thought i would add my 2 cents.

agree with everything you say, as yes sail panel is a cheap and easy option thats the reason i offered that location for the people out there who dont want to spend lots of money geting custom made a piller mounts or things like that. bluetacking is a very good option aswell. all in all i am really just agreeing with everthing you say. but like you said adding mt 2 cents

just use the surface mounting hardware, put them on the a pillar. if you need to remove them, just get a new pair of pillars, its not like its a brand new car or anything. just make sure you test them with bluetack first, like the others mentioned.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have mine installed up on the A-Pillar. I've attached a couple of pics to show L&R, they look reasonably standard so they don't attract too much attention from prying eyes.

Pardon the shit pics...

post-36287-1251269157_thumb.jpg

post-36287-1251269331_thumb.jpg

Edited by -Stokesy-

Not something i would have ever chosen to do but the previous owner of mine surface mounted the ones in my car in the door card. They actually work quite well there. I dont go much on cutting huge holes in the doors but if your not planning on ever taking them out i guess its ok...

That's not really true there are many advantages to having your tweeters in the kicks:

- There's more room

- They're not on display

- They're an equal distance from the listener as the mids

- you can create a deeper sound stage as they are further from the driver

Just have a play around with different locations and see which sound you prefer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...