Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

s15 pewter, ENGINEERED (regency proved) silvertop RB20DET with around 40 xxx kms

Made 160 kw on 10psi on previous VG30 and currently upgraded to R33 s1 turbo.

-Front mount cooler

-Koyo R33 twin core rad

-Jaycar electronics boost controller (not connected at the moment)

-NISMO fuel pressure regulator

-Extreme heavy duty clutch

-Cusco strut brace

-R33 s1 Turbo

-remapped ecu without limited

-battery relocated to boot

-pioneer head unit and 6 inch splits

-black ca stockies

-spare vs commo calipers

-water temp, oil pressure, boost, volts gauges

-tacho behind wheel

-oil catch can

-blow off value

Just brough from R31club 1 week ago due to moving to citi (my girl's request which cannt refused runaway.gif), I have not got a place to park this car which just fitting a new turbo as the project beginning. dunno.gif the car is running good at the moment, apparently need a service & tune.

Make me an offer thru either SMS or call on 0433 2608 66, then we start from there.

I will try to make photo as soon as I can (new camera on board undecided.gif)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279763-sa-1989-r31-series-lll-sillo/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...