Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is a R33 GTS-T with a HKS GT2835 Pro S kit, built motor 270rwkw on about 1.2bar. I bought the car about 3/4 weeks ago and it has always had a bit of engine noise at idle. I passed it off as it has forged pistons and thought it was them. Motor has'nt used any oil since ive had it.

Lately when i turn the car off it does'nt have that trade mark ball bearing turbo wind down, instead it has what sounds like crunchy bearings lol. Today as i just got it onto boost it made a scraping noise so i backed off. Then later in 3rd gave it half throttle and it could barely boost :bunny: . Tried second and it was spooling ok but then that scrape noise again. Babied it home and now it's reasting.

Here's a vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GK__sdPQcz0...re=channel_page

It has shaft play up and down, back and forward.

How much would a new core be for this turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279783-hks-gt2835-pro-s-not-sounding-good/
Share on other sites

gone.

could be seals etc, but now will need new wheels, shaft, seals and balance.

ie a genuine BB garrett core (no front/rear comp covers) is around $800USD

for a rebuild expect around $800 to $1300

good luck, and yeah go a rebuild after getting as many quotes as possible. interstate quotes arnt an issue, honestly

GCG sydney

ATS or MTQ adelaide

Hypergear in melbourne

Normally the grinding noise came from the bearing cartridge, Its a common issue with BB turbo caused from engine oil contaminations. If your wheels and shaft are in good condition its just matter of replacing the bearing cartridge and seals. The small chips on the comp wheel can be machined off. cost wise is about $800AUD for every thing. You are likely needing a inline oil filter before fitting the turbo back on.

If you look on the turbos ID tag it should show a model number and or a cartridge number .

A HKS GT2835 Pro S turbo is basically the cropped 84 trim version of the GT30 UHP turbine with a 71.1mm OD GT35 series compressor in 56 trim .

According to my notes its cartridge number should be 700177-3 , or in long number speak 700177-0003 .

My list shows the unit number as 700382-19 for a 2835 56T , but this may not necessarily be a Pro S unit number because they have RB specific turbine and compressor housings .

Cheers A .

I'd be wondering what's made its way inside to damage the wheel in that manner.

The outside of the wheels are perfect so if the cartridge/bearings are failing its not major yet as the wheel hasn't touched the sides.

It more looks like bits of debris/dirt or similar has been in there at one or more points in the turbo's life.

You would replace that wheel too :P

Perhaps the turbo was swapped out just before you purchased :(

Make sure you pay some $$$ to find out what the failure was before getting too excited with the new turbo. If its lack of oil and so on there could be slightly blocked lines/pressure issues and other similar problems that if not fixed, will kill the rebuild turbo as well :)

There there's oil feeding pin under the oil feeding port. The end pin size on it is 20 thou which delivers oil to your bearings. Normally that gets blocked with all sort of dirt. Your turbo starvs from oil and cook the bearings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...