Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having recently sold the 180SX and surving the 2 month drought between redundancy and the new job, I've decided it's time for a skyline. Never owned a Skyline before but have always been a little keen on them. The first question I would like to put forward to those in the know is what is a good base model R32 to look for? Obviously manuel turbo and RWD seems the safest bet. (only ever seem to write AWD's off, never a RWD :rofl: ). Im not familiar to the changes in the series and what the difference is in options relating to M spec etc.

I've also begun researching into the modifications I plan to do. Nothing insane, just give it ample power to have a fist full of fun, without being a complete pig in the city traffic. So With that in mind and a budget that limits me to only change external componants and not open its hart up and change internals. I am after response over power so which is the turbo for me or will the stock turbo on a RB20DET have more potential with the right tweaking then an expensive after market one?

Another question I would like to ask those that have been there and tried that is engine managment. Re-chip the factory computer or go for an after market management system? If its better to go after market what would you recomend?

Now the car, turbo and engine management in my mind will be the big 3 main expenses so I would like to get it right first time. Would really like to hear other peoples opinions and experiences. I have owned a RB20DET before but didnt tweak it while it resided in my Cefiro. That has since been sold and the majority of my other rides have been SR's so RB's are still a little bit of a mystery to me.

Less important is the body kit. thinking URAS but also looking out for something a little different too. Have come across one from the UK i think. Far as i know its a "zeroG". Pics are below any one know what it is?...think its on a GTR though in the pic.

post-64944-1248507474_thumb.jpgpost-64944-1248507483_thumb.jpgpost-64944-1248507495_thumb.jpgpost-64944-1248507505_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/
Share on other sites

R32 GTST - Most common model. (rwd turbo)

GTS4 - awd turbo

Every R32 GTST sold is a TypeM. (Have never seen a non typeM)

Best power/responsive turbo for rb20det is HKS2530. Pick one up for $800-$1200AUD second hand. Will get you 210-230kw at the wheels depending on supporting mods. (full exhaust, cam gears, intercooler, tune, gtr injectors, z32 afm)

Or R33 turbo ($300-$400AUD) which will get you 180-200kw depending on dyno/tune/supporting mods

Cheapest engine management is to get a chip into factory ecu or Nistune www.nistune.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4734823
Share on other sites

Every R32 GTST sold is a TypeM. (Have never seen a non typeM)

Nope not every R32 GTS-t is a type m, the non M's have single piston calipers all round and different steering wheel and stuff but they are really rare, i've only seen 2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4734853
Share on other sites

Nope not every R32 GTS-t is a type m, the non M's have single piston calipers all round and different steering wheel and stuff but they are really rare, i've only seen 2

lol yes thats right. They also had different looking stock rims. (according to my r32 brochure)

Didnt want to confuse the fella :P

Very very rare to find a non typeM so a regular buyer of a r32 will only stumble across typeM's :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4734863
Share on other sites

lol yes thats right. They also had different looking stock rims. (according to my r32 brochure)

Didnt want to confuse the fella :P

Very very rare to find a non typeM so a regular buyer of a r32 will only stumble across typeM's :)

With the changed injectors would the stock R32 fuel rail hold its own will that needa change? Also with larger injectors i assume a pump would follow too or is the stock one full of untapped potential? Is there a difference in head lights some where along the lines. Think i remember hearing something about N1 spec head lights.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4735226
Share on other sites

With the changed injectors would the stock R32 fuel rail hold its own will that needa change? Also with larger injectors i assume a pump would follow too or is the stock one full of untapped potential? Is there a difference in head lights some where along the lines. Think i remember hearing something about N1 spec head lights.

gtr injectors are fine with the standard rb20 fuel rail from my experience. Havent had any issues. Just swapped over the gtr injectors and wired in the resistor pack (search the forum for more information on gtr injector install)

Forgot fuel pump on my list. Either a gtr pump or a new bosch 040 pump.

Headlights are a grey area. The projector style headlamps were more popular in series 2 r32's (1991-1993) which came with full yellow/amber indicators and different interior material and slight changes.

Series 1 r32's (1988-91) came with different style headlamps and clear/yellow indicators.

Majority of the time N1 headlamps are confused with the standard series 1 headlamps as they look similar. Forum has more info about them, give a search. I think funkymonkey said in a thread somewhere the main differences between them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4735569
Share on other sites

gtr injectors are fine with the standard rb20 fuel rail from my experience. Havent had any issues. Just swapped over the gtr injectors and wired in the resistor pack (search the forum for more information on gtr injector install)

Forgot fuel pump on my list. Either a gtr pump or a new bosch 040 pump.

Headlights are a grey area. The projector style headlamps were more popular in series 2 r32's (1991-1993) which came with full yellow/amber indicators and different interior material and slight changes.

Series 1 r32's (1988-91) came with different style headlamps and clear/yellow indicators.

Majority of the time N1 headlamps are confused with the standard series 1 headlamps as they look similar. Forum has more info about them, give a search. I think funkymonkey said in a thread somewhere the main differences between them.

Nice one. Cheers for that. So now the hunt begins for a 32 to start work on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4735731
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Nice one. Cheers for that. So now the hunt begins for a 32 to start work on.

The car gods have been smiling on me and decided its not right for me to settle on just a regular 32. Have been offerred a R32 GTR :/ so it looks like skunk works is evolving to a zilla.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4755299
Share on other sites

i got a 32 for sale that would be an ideal project car if your interested. from my experience, an gtst is a completly different kettle of fish to the gtr... its not like the gtr is just a bigger better version... they both have their own lurks and perks and are completly different cars to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280670-skunk-works-r32/#findComment-4761291
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...