R32 Cutting Out Sometimes After Warmup?

[GoodOldR32]

Hi all, recently my 1990 R32 RB20DET is dieing after about 10mins of driving, it starts missing and only will run with light throttle, then will just die, i try to restart, it starts missing, then revs from 1,000 to 2,000 then back to 1,000, it does it a few times then it will rev, but it then has a miss at 5,000 to 5,500 then it goes away, all this happens in 5mins then it goes normal again lol it doesnt worry me too much but was abit scarey when i broke down on a bridge and held trafic up for 5mins lol, also when im just normal driving its running at 0.5 Bar, but i sometimes up it to 1.0bar (Electronic boost controll ftw lol)

[FordyR31]

Possibly a crank angle sensor issue? I know that when they are playing up the car can just cut out at random times and not start, then all of sudden it will start up and u can drive it. Could it be something like ur AFM needs cleaning??

I am having a similar issue with my RB25DET S2. I am going to clean my AFM and change my coilpacks but if they don't fix it then its back to the mechanic. My issue is only when cruising at the speed limit tho under minimal cruising load or just taking off easy in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. It started to do this yesterday on Peanant Hills Road. I came from the coast down the F3 without a drama, got onto PHR and about 5 mins down there stopped at another red light and the car just cut out. I tried to start it up, it cut out again. Started it again and pressed the accelerator and the revs went up normally to about 2500 and when i took my foot off it went back to idle. That's when it started to miss and want to cut out. It did this all the way from PHR to my mates house in Windsor where I stopped for an hour or 2, let the car cool down and it drove home (about half an hour) fine. I drove it today for about 20mins without an issue, stopped for an hour and half, went to drive home and the problem started up worse than ever but didn't cut out coz I was driving, i had to push the accelerator in to stop it from stalling.

If I'm driving and u hold the throttle at the same spot for example to cruise in 4th gear at 60km/h and the same in 5th at 80k/h the car will just miss every 10-20 seconds or so and lose all power completely for a moment and almost want to stall. I have to press the accelerator in a bit to keep it going as I said before and get into some boost. It doesn't do it under decent load tho and above 2700rpm or any rpm on boost.

Coming home up the mountain where the car is pretty much always in boost, even if its just 1 or 2psi under that sort load, it drives perfectly normal, no noticable power loss or anything, no misses at all through any sort of rev range. I am trying to change my coilpacks as I said before, because i know my factory ones ark over to the head when hot, but I would have thought my issue would have been just as bad if not worse under load and higher in the revs if it were a spark issue. The car is run by a Power FC but t was on the dyno about a month ago and made good power, the AFR's were in the low 12's across the revs on boost and there were no issues with it. As far as boost goes mine stays normal at all times. Nothing funny there.

Sorry to hi-jack ur thread mate but rather than start a new one about what could be the same/a similar thing and get burned for not searching so I added mine.

Hope we can both get it sorted a.s.a.p

Liam

Edited July 29, 2009 by FordyR31

[FordyR31]

considering no-one else has replied.. I fixed my car, was a mixture of dodgy coil packs, spark plugs needed changing and the air flow meter was a little too oily... try cleaning ur air flow meter first with some electrical contact cleaner and change ur plugs, see how that goes.

[bbe]

Yes always start with th e basics its never far from that.

afm's can be cleaned with degreaser whilst on the car, have done it this way for years, the excess degreaser when you start the car just goes threw the cooler and gets some blow back oil out for ya lol.

[drpheel]

My r33 did that about a week ago .... I know the coil pack are going out because it alwase does it on cold starts. But to avoid the probleme when I cruised the car around I did the following .

- Removed the coil-pack cover and mounted the ignitor chip on the fire-wall ( helps to keep the humidity out )

- Checked all the Ground and Power connections to alternator, battery, coil-packs, ect. Try to monitor the Voltage

- Some Fresh Spark plugs ( plain old NGK V-power gapped to 0.8 )

Cleaning the MAF is ok... But its kind of a on and off thing. It either works or dosent. Found out after this that my sound system was making to much vibration and the + of the battery was getting loose all the time .... Probleme never occure again ! If your car does it again ... Try to keep the gas on for a few seconds, If you see black smoke comming out then your fuel is not getting ignited. Gives you a good idea of where to start looking !

Hope this helps out !

[FordyR31]

Haven't heard from the original maker of this thread... Did u sort it out mate?

I thought I had my car sorted but after a good drive today it started to do it again... Feels like possibly a cylinder is flooding slightly choking itself and when i give it a hit, it clears up for a while...

Bad spark?

Leaky Injector/being stuck open a bit too much while cruising?

[payback21]

I recently had a miss problem that ive solved. Ended up being the ignitor. The miss was intermitant and would last for about 2-3 mins and then come back to life running normally on all cycl.

Changed ignitor, problem sorted for me! Hope it may be of some help for you.

[FordyR31]

Doesn't help me much. Mine is an RB25DET S2 so no single ignitor module. Might help the original writer tho... I think I'm about to get some splitfires if I can afford the extra and if it still does it I might have to start looking at injectors.