Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not too long ago I got a MV stage 2 valve body upgrade fitted here in Melbourne. The transmission was also serviced at that time.

Was going really well all until I noticed the shifts start to become less effective. They got sluggish and the downshifts aren't as responsive.

Then last night I was doing a little sliding on my "private race track" when it was damp and now the overdrive does not come in at all. Seems like my overdrive has gone on a permanent vacation back home to Japan and does not want to come back!

Could this be a serious money pit? Should I just fork out the $2,000 or more for a conversion?

Works fine now! :S

Here is exactly what was going on.

The overdrive wasn't working at all and the shifts seemed a bit sluggish. Also my boost wasn't coming on at all. It felt like as if the snow button had been pressed, but it hadn't been.

I thought my transmission gave up and my intercooler pipe came loose which would explain the power loss as I had trouble keeping the pipes on when I got the FMIC.

Does anyone reckon my car went into limp mode or something?

Limp mode would light up the engine management bulb in your dash, it's possible the bulb isnt working. but you can confirm the bulb is working when you turn the ignition on

Limp mode would light up the engine management bulb in your dash, it's possible the bulb isnt working. but you can confirm the bulb is working when you turn the ignition on

Don't remember seeing anything and I am almost certain that light bulb works. Well it all works fine now I guess I should just hope for the best.

ive got a stage 2 shift kit as well ready to be fitted into my r34. my question to you 'daslingdale' does it feel to rough for a daily driver especially in traffic or does it still feel ok?

ive got a stage 2 shift kit as well ready to be fitted into my r34. my question to you 'daslingdale' does it feel to rough for a daily driver especially in traffic or does it still feel ok?

If it's the MV Automatics stage 2 then it's only a little bit harder when driving normally. A dosing pod or droning exhaust would be much more annoying.

sweet sounds good, thanks mate. ive got the droning exhaust and the pod filter so if they are more annoying, than this shouldnt bother me at all lol.

Yeah mine use to be the same until my exhaust fully carbonated. Now it's just the dosing pod. Makes it hard to get by a booze bus without getting raped. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...