Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As thread title suggests im wondering on the different engines in the s1 stags.... Mines a a '97 RS4 V (well call this car A) A mates (stagharts) has a '98 RS4V Dayz (car B) Both are series ones. Im aware that his is a later model than mine and would have been produced just before the s2's were starting to get pumped out...

Now today after doing some work on his car I've noticed a few things, His CAS is different to mine and he has a nipple on his plenum that I dont have. Is their such thing as a Series 1 RB25DET and a Series 2 RB25DET? If so what are the differences?

When i upped the boost on mine to 12psi with no computer or piggbacks it didnt rich and retard or miss at all. However stagharts car doesnt want to get much over 10psi and feels to be missing or R & Ring at full throttle and full boost. His coils are in OK condition with some evidence of them leaking spark. Will try my splitfires in their soon to see if it removes the jolting/miss feeling on WOT.

Picks of each part im talking about can be found here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...Va-t281219.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281266-sereis-1-stagea-engine-variants/
Share on other sites

its likely to follow the same suit as R33 GTST engine models, there are 3 known variants

series 1 = RB25det came in 1993 to 1995 GTST

series 2 = rb25det came in 1997 ish onwards

series 2.1 or series 3 or something else = came in 1998 R33 GTST

series 2.1 or series 3 or something else is RB25DET with ER34 CAS and some slight ER34 parts, but still R33 RB25DET

series 1 will have green or blue label AFM

series 2 will have pink label AFM

yep as per your pics

car a is series 1 rb25det

car b is series 2.1 or series 3 rb25det

theres 2 tenths of bugger all difference between them

the ECU differences are negligable and not even worth worrying about

the fact your doesnt hit R&R its pure luck, it might be a mangled/remapped/hacked ECU (likely)

the ECU differences are negligable and not even worth worrying about

the fact your doesnt hit R&R its pure luck, it might be a mangled/remapped/hacked ECU (likely)

So you think my car (car a) that doesnt hit the r & r has a hacked ecu?

theres a listed differences thread somewhere

the ECU differeces are bugger all, not even worth finding out what they are

the stock ecu is junk, dont even bother trying, remap, standalone or piggyback it

all stock ecu's r&R when airflow exceed's set levels

its not a fixed setting on boost, its based on airflow

it usually happens when you run around 10-12psi however

thats interesting... Mine never r & r as hard if any when i upped my bost.... And it was a stocker when i got it.....? Would supprise me if the ecu has been hacked to remove the r & r. Im now running a SITC and SAFCII anyway :) Just trying to sort out why his is r & r ing more... Might throw the timing light on his car and check the base timing for shits....

noooo paul....not for stageas. there are at least 3 ECUs in w34 series 1 stagea and they are very different in mapping / sensitivity to extra boost. And they all have different wiring looms. All use the S2 R33 GTST style motor with ignitors on the coil packs. Series 2 W34 is different again and may be the same as r34 gtt (not 100% sure though)

have a look for my thread re this in the stagea section.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...