Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

I have been registerd on the forums for abit of time not, come on every now and then. I though id tell abit about my self. Im Zaff I drive a Ford XR6 Turbo BF MkII Sedan. I love cars, basicly spend any of my spare time on 'em. For a while ive been thinking about making a full proper drift car. Something like an R33 gts-t geared up with Plazmaman gear in the engine, with a hi mount GT3540R charger. But still looking for the right car. Does anyone have drift spec cars on here where I could cheak out info on? And how much power can the standard manual gearbox handle before it needs to be strengthened?

I know I shouldn't really post this stuff up as its a Nissan Skyline forum and NOT a Ford XR6T but just incase some are wondering or WA people might have seen me around...

Engine

-Plazmaman 1000HP Intercooler.

-Plazmaman 3" Cold Side Piping.

-Plazmaman 2.5" Hot Side Piping.

-Plazmaman 4" CAI Intake off Turbo into closed box with Odyssey battery.

-Turbosmart Megasonic BOV.

-12 PSI Actuator and ported waste gate/flapper mod.

-60lb Siemens Deka Injectors.

-Walbro Fuel Pump.

-XCAL 3.

Exhaust:

-4" Avalanche Dump Pipe.

-5" 100Cell Custom Forged Cat.

-Twin 2.5" Pacemaker cat-back quad exhaust system with 3" tips.

Exterior:

-XR8 bonnet.

-Typhoon front bar.

-Typhoon/GT side skirts.

-GT back bar.

-GT wing.

-20" Lenso wheels 20x8.5 front and 20x10 rear With Kumho KU31 Ecsta SPT in 275/30/20Rear and 225/35/20 Front

-SL Front and SSL King Springs

Its running 352.7RWKW on 15psi street tune.

SDC10040.jpg

SDC10023.jpg

SDC10012.jpg

SDC10044.jpg

SDC10103.jpg

SDC10001.jpg

Plans are Getting some new a Plenum and some engine bling. But depending how I go with the drft car, if I can find a chassie for the correct price, Ill can it and work on the Drfit car sooner.

If anyone has any specific info I should be aware of for setting up a drift car with the R33's id aprecheat it if they could sent me a PM.

Zaff ;)

Edited by rated x
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281530-hey/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...